Pietta 1858 Bison .44 cal 12" bbl Brass Frame or the Traditions 1858 Bison Revolver .44 cal FR185812

[trapperCVA]

I have shot long barrel pistols for many years & I have to grown to like them very much I guesss I I got used to using a longer barrel

 

[trapperCVA]

Hollywood is make believe & nothing more & I don't use movies to dictate which barrel length I am buying

 

[BP Addict]

Many use a fiber wad, Cream of Wheat or Corn meal over the powder. Nobody seems to like the "grease" over the ball but it does reduce "Leading" in the barrel!

 

[trapperCVA]

And a longer barrel will increase the velocity some without have to use a bigger charge this is why I love the longest barrel on any of my BP Revolvers

 

[Sonny Rich]

Hey thank you this information has helped my a lot I will need more help can you let me know what type of those wads so I don't have to use that messy Bore Butter & I would be very grateful if you could make up a list of the Accessories I will need except for caps & powder I have already chosen them I really thank you for all of this valuable information I am a total green horn in the Cap & Ball Revolvers Thank ya so much friend

That's why you should buy my Pietta 44 i dont shoot C&b but have a virgin one.

 

[Dennis Olson]

That's why you should buy my Pietta 44 i dont shoot C&b but have a virgin one.

I thought he was wanting a 58 remmy
Your pic is a colt opem top

 

[Hylander]

Ok, Looks like you got some pretty good answers already, But I will chime in.
Been shooting BP Revolvers for about 30 years.
Traditions is made by Pietta and Pietta makes a great Revolver.
Brass frame will stretch over time with stout loads, so I would keep the loads 25gr. or less.
This will make sure your revolver last for many years.
Brass tarnishes, so you will need to occasionally polish it.
Cleaning: Just remove the grips and dunk the rest in the kitchen sink with just a tad of dish soap and warm water.
No need for any other cleaners, dry promptly and oil.
No on conversion cylinders, brass frame is not strong enough.
No on the grease, yes on wads.
Grease is just messy and time consuming.
Over the powder wads are much cleaner, less time consuming and they wipe the bore as they go down.
They also buffer the load.
Balls: since you are going to cast your own, get a LEE .454 mold
44-45 cal. wads, you can buy commercial or make your own.
Buy = $10 per hundred
Make your own = $1.00 per hundred.
Caps: #10 percussion, I prefer Remington as they are a perfect fit with Pietta nipples.
Powder: I have to ask why are you wanting to use Pyro Pellets?
They attract moisture which promotes rust and are more expensive than loose powder.
I prefer Hogdons 777FFF, easy clean up and won't attract moisture.
I have left a revolver dirty for 30 days (on purpose) and not a speck of rust.
I am sure I am leaving things out but hopefully this helps.

 

[Dennis Olson]

Just because conversion cylinders are available does not mean you must obtain one.

Any brass frame will "Shoot of time" eventually. Sooner, rather than later, if you use loads that lean to the "heavy" side. (over 20-25 grains. Be aware that you may need to use a "heavier" charge to seat the ball fully on the powder. As with a rifle, you do not want a gap/air space between the powder and ball.
One of my revolvers had a "Short Stroke", I'd guess, when pressing the ball into the chamber using the "recommended" powder charge. I had to up it by 5 grains to get the ball seated on the powder. (Over powder wads for revolver had not been invented yet when I had that one.)
Truth to tell, I never thought of putting 5 grains (compressed volume) or so Cream of Wheat between the powder and ball. I always put it on top of the ball to seal the chambers. Adding 5 grains of powder and putting the Cream of Wheat on top was easier/less hassle and possibly a little faster.
Only time I put the Cream of Wheat directly on top of the powder was if I was shooting blanks at a CW reenactment.
(25 grains FFFg or P grade Pyrodex, Cream of Wheat compressed flush with the chamber mouth. was my blanks load.)

BYW: If you do decide to get a conversion cylinder, you do not have to modify or replace the hammer to fire the black powder loaded "Cowboy Action" cartridges. The cylinder "end cap" has six firingpins that are hit by the standard C&B hammer.
Cartridge or not, you still don't want smokeless powder anywhere near your revolver.

Why are you set on a 12 inch barrel, if you don't mind my asking?
Bat Masterson never had one, no matter what dime novels, urban legend, and Hollywood claim.
Because of the barrel and chamber gap, a longer barrel will not add to the velocity.
A 12 inch barrel will just make carrying more difficult and the revolver clumsy, since the balance will be off..

Iprefer corn meal over the powder

 

[Sonny Rich]

I thought he was wanting a 58 remmy
Your pic is a colt opem top

Still a 44 and pretty to boot And it is steel.

 

[trapperCVA]

Traditions Sent Me a email message & they plainly told me THAT NONE OF THE CAP & BALL REVOLVERS THEY SELL CAN BE CONVERTED I have the message if any one whats toread it for themselves .I am going to buy the Brass Frame & Next I am going to buy the 1858 8" Steel Frame a bit later on I hope to wait a while & I may be able to the 12" Buffalo /Bison Steel Frame I would be willing to wait for a spell in order to buy the 12" Steel model

 

[trapperCVA]

Traditions Sent Me a email message & they plainly told me THAT NONE OF THE CAP & BALL REVOLVERS THEY SELL CAN BE CONVERTED I have the message if any one whats to read it for themselves .I am going to buy the Brass Frame first & Next I am going to buy the 1858 8" Steel Frame a bit later on I hope to wait a while & I may be able to the 12" Buffalo /Bison Steel Frame I would be willing to wait for a spell in order to buy the 12" Steel model

 

[Sonny Rich]

Traditions Sent Me a email message & they plainly told me THAT NONE OF THE CAP & BALL REVOLVERS THEY SELL CAN BE CONVERTED I have the message if any one whats toread it for themselves .I am going to buy the Brass Frame & Next I am going to buy the 1858 8" Steel Frame a bit later on I hope to wait a while & I may be able to the 12" Buffalo /Bison Steel Frame I would be willing to wait for a spell in order to buy the 12" Steel model

That don't sound right to me,i might be reluctant on a brass frame but i have an a 1875 with two cylinders one cap 1 conversion but it is all steel also with a bluish finish.

 

[Sonny Rich]

That don't sound right to me,i might be reluctant on a brass frame but i have an a 1875 with two cylinders one cap 1 conversion but it is all steel also with a bluish finish.

sounds like cya to me.