Wads to be used for .50 with a muzzlebrake

[geneso]

Hello Everyone,
When complete with a new breechplug that will utilize a bare 209 primer, and Blackhorn 209 Powder, I look forward finally to start testing my Knight Disc Extreme rifle in .50 caliber. When modified,it will have a muzzlebrake. I have been a serious long range shooter since the 1960's and realize that there are several references on this site as to overpowder wads. There are apparently a lot of types of these wads. Which wads would you recommend with 209 powder? How would you use them properly with a muzzlebrake, since they will be dropping a distance before they engage the barrel? I will want them to be not cocked in the barrel but at a 90 degree angle to the bore so the bullet will then be seated properly over this wad.

Thanks, in advance
WW

 

[HC]

Use a “load thru the funnel “ funnel.

 

[ENCORE50A]

^ That

 

[geneso]

Hello Everyone,

One experienced shooter in Missouri told me he superglues the wad to the bottom of the bullet for the correct positioning. DUH!!!

 

[smokepolehall]

I am ignorant on why a muzzle-brake on a .50 cal n using wads. I understand sml set-up's using a m-brake. I just know that the .45 n .40's are what people use.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

Hello Everyone,

One experienced shooter in Missouri told me he superglues the wad to the bottom of the bullet for the correct positioning. DUH!!!

I dont think i would glue it to the bullet. It needs to drop away immediately upon exiting the barrel. You can load it by itself with a jag to keep it aligned, then load the bullet.

 

[Ninering62]

Hello Everyone,

One experienced shooter in Missouri told me he superglues the wad to the bottom of the bullet for the correct positioning. DUH!!!

As to the " experienced shooter " it sounds like one of those cases where " just bc a guy can swing a hammer & drive a nail in, but a carpenter - not even close. One needs to be careful as to who they listen to, especially when it comes to things that go boom.
There is no need to glue a wad to a bullet, its not a good thing to do, its not a smart thing that any real deal experienced muzzleloader shooter would ever do or tell another to do. I think that I can say with a pretty high degree of certainty that no one in here would glue their wads to their bullets or tell you to do it.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

As to the " experienced shooter " it sounds like one of those cases where " just bc a guy can swing a hammer & drive a nail in, but a carpenter - not even close. One needs to be careful as to who they listen to, especially when it comes to things that go boom.
There is no need to glue a wad to a bullet, its not a good thing to do, its not a smart thing that any real deal experienced muzzleloader shooter would ever do or tell another to do. I think that I can say with a pretty high degree of certainty that no one in here would glue their wads to their bullets or tell you to do it.

…well there was that one guy…

 

[Ninering62]

…well there was that one guy…

Yessss THAT GUY - eats crayons & glues wads to bullets......I wonder if he does free tax returns too

 

[ElDiablo]

As to the " experienced shooter " it sounds like one of those cases where " just bc a guy can swing a hammer & drive a nail in, but a carpenter - not even close. One needs to be careful as to who they listen to, especially when it comes to things that go boom.

Haha - agree completely! I’ve seen a lot of bad advice given all over the internet by “well known” members.

 

[geneso]

Well, this is a balanced reply and when I finally get my rifle back from the gunsmith will do a simple test at 300 which should settle the issue quickly. Thank you all!

WW

 

[BuffaloSoldier]

If he was eating crayons, wonder if he had been one of Uncle Sam's Misguided Children??

 

[ElDiablo]

On the original question, the type of muzzle brake may influence the wad you use. I’ve heard guys like Jeff Fisk say not to use a veggie (fiber) wad with tactical brakes. I’ve used dry wool wads with my tactical brakes. With a radial, I suspect you could use veggie, wool and/or poly.

Supergluing the wad to the base is something I’ve considered. Would make the loading slightly easier. But as @michiganmuzzy says, you want that wad to discard as soon as possible for best accuracy. Superglue does melt at around 350 F (depending on the type) so it may detach in-bore upon firing.

Test it and let us know if you see any difference in dispersion (accuracy). I’ll be curious.

 

[ENCORE50A]

A veggie WILL work with a tactical brake, however, you have no clue where the veggie wad will end up. They have been known to fly out the sides of a tactical and imbed in objects that are close. That's not good. Any of the wads will work with a radial.

 

[geneso]

OK, I am liking the balanced input here. My rifle is months away from completion with all the things I had wanted to do to it. I am retired and saw my last patient 17 years ago, so when this weapon is complete, now that my greenhouse is secure for winter, some time will be spent everyday on my range till I can come to reasonable conclusions as to what works best with it. One question that eludes me is this. Blackpowder is an inefficient propulsion device for heavy bullets. It would appear that from reading about reloading this substance, that adding huge amounts of it to a charge does not incrementally produce huge gains in velocity. Therefore, why not accept the inefficiency and learn how to aim properly at longer distances, or simply not shoot. Am I missing something obvious here?

 

[bronko220002]

Very simply use a load thru funnel and place your wad into the funnel as evenly as possible then the bullet on top of it. The wad will straighten out. I even use a slightly oversized dry felt wad (13mm) that I make myself. Push them down the bore together.
But absolutely a load thru funnel is a necessity when loading a muzzy with a brake even if a wad isn't used. It protects the base of the bullet from misalignment when starting to load it at the muzzle.

 

[geneso]

Trying to load a bullet through a muzzlebrake is challenge in that I was lied to by the supplier who told me the brake was supplied with a metal funnel which could be used to seat the bullet. Instead a plastic funnel was supplied which the bullet could not be seated with. Eventually all this will be sorted out, but right now things are unnecessarlly complicated.

 

[ENCORE50A]

View attachment loading through funnel.MOV

 

[bronko220002]

Trying to load a bullet through a muzzlebrake is challenge in that I was lied to by the supplier who told me the brake was supplied with a metal funnel which could be used to seat the bullet. Instead a plastic funnel was supplied which the bullet could not be seated with. Eventually all this will be sorted out, but right now things are unnecessarlly complicated.

Sounds like another bait and switch! Your brake should be oversized to allow the insertion of a funnel with a hole big enough to drop a bullet down for loading.

 

[geneso]

OK, now I see how to do it! Its simple when you are shown how and also when you have the right equipment! I am laughing at how hard this is due to my ignorance in this subject and the fact we decided to retire to the Rockies in New Mexico, after being so supported by the academic excellence and highest technology surrounding the Seatle area. In just the short space of two days, I have learned how to remove a bullet stuck in a m/l barrel. That was easy, except for the skirt from the ELDX bullet which really got stuck in the muzzlebrake. Today I get to clean out the barrel with boiling water and soap to remove the Pyrodex Select residue, THEN clean the barrel of that substance and treat it with Hoppes, prior to the conversion to Blackhorn 209. Then after soaking the brechplug overnight in lacquer thinner will be using pins and drill bits to open up the orifice so you can actually see though it. Then, we got to work on why the bolt will not indent the firing pin. This seemed like a "mountain" a few days ago and now seems "doable". Doing this by myself ensures I will never forget the lessons learned!!