"Made in USA" older CVA .50

[Eichholz]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

House number is 514 - did I list that as my age? Brain a bit mixed up these days & probably lied about both anyway.

Removed a lot of wood from that Traditions stock so it at least has the profile of a proper Leman, pinned & glued that 2-piece stock and got rid of the brass plate. Expect to paint stripes on it eventually, got some deer rawhide to hide the stock joint & generally look like (fake) old repairs. Have some old solid brass tacks  Think I have a proper patchbox to put on it. (who uses those things anyway?). Parts are strewn about my workbench. Yes, I know where my bench is but can't necessarily see the surface. Also shoot air guns around that bench - can practice indoors without police being called.
Time, time, time and too many projects.

 

[BP Addict]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

Thanks for the acknowledgement, FrontierGander.


I’m new to this forum but not to Muzzle Loading.  I’ve been collecting and shooting them since the mid-80s.  I’m also a Field Rep for the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association (NMLRA) as well as President of my local club. 



My favorites are the older (pre-1991) CVAs.  They have a 1-66 RB twist (with the exception of the Frontier Carbine, Apollo, Squirrel and Stalker Rifles).  1-48 twist barrels were an accessory only.  You also won’t find “Please read instructions before use” on the barrels!

 

[BP Addict]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

I missed one of your questions Renegadehunter.
 
This is from the owner’s manual:
 
2) Double Set Trigger Assembly:
a) The CVA DOUBLE SET TRIGGER refers to two triggers in which the rear trigger is pulled (cocked) until an audible “click’ is heard.  This indicates the front trigger is activated or “set”.  Very LIGHT pressure on the front trigger will then fire the muzzleloader.
b)  All CVA muzzleloaders equipped with a double set trigger, are designed so a direct, but long and heavy pull on the front trigger will also fire the firearm without the necessity of “cocking” the rear trigger.
c)  If your CVA muzzleloader is equipped with a double set trigger, it should be adjusted as follows.
d)  The small screw in the middle of the triggers, when tightened (turned clockwise WITH THE TRIGGERS POINTING UP), reduces sear engagement in the lock and reduces the “trigger pull” weight.
CAUTION:  Overtightening (clockwise with triggers pointing up) of this small screw in the middle of the triggers will create a dangerous “hair” trigger and will cause rapid wear, allowing the possibility of accidental firing.
e)   There is another small screw behind the two triggers that adjusts the height of the sear trip lever and the power let-off.  If the hammer does not cock in the non-set position, the trip lever is adjusted too high.  It should be adjusted as follows, normally this is factory adjusted and should not be touched,
f)  Set the trigger.  Turn this small screw clockwise (with triggers pointing up) until it stops.  Then turn same screw ½ turn counterclockwise.
g)  Test operation and fine tune both screws.
 
I once had a couple of Mountain rifles that wouldn’t go to full cock without pressing the set trigger first.  I adjusted the rear screw to no avail.  I actually had to remove the assembly and back off the screw on the rear spring.  Too much pressure on this causes the “set” lever to engage the sear so that the lock won’t cock.  Problem fixed.  This seems to be more prevalent on “kit” guns.
 
There is also a sear adjustment screw inside the lock.  You need to be careful adjusting this as it could cause the gun to off accidentally.  Here's a photo:


https://servimg.com/view/20097639/2

 

[Renegadehunter]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

Excellent BP Addict, that will serve me well when I start working on it, thanks a lot!

As I remember, it will cock just fine and the front trigger will drop the hammer, but the set trigger doesn't "click" and set for the lighter front trigger pull.  I'm also not sure if it had a half cock position...are they supposed to?

I'm going to go pick it up this evening after work.  I'm also very curious what condition the bore is in and want to run a patch down to check it.  Hopefully I won't be doing a bunch of lapping but I'm not holding my breath.  I'd be really surprised if anything was put in the bore for protection years ago when he completed the build.  We'll see what the patch looks like...

 

[Hanshi]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

I had an old CVA cheapo kit rifle .50 a friend gave to me.  That sucker would really shoot!  I killed deer with it but eventually sold it to satisfy an itch to get something new.

 

[Renegadehunter]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

Went and got it last night.
It is a 4 screw patch box.  It looks like he did decent wood work on it, although the stock is very blond colored.  Almost looks like it wasn't stained at all and just has a protectant finish on it.  The barrel is browned and looks good except for a spot on the end of the muzzle that is still shiny.  There is some slight surface rust around the nipple area.
I was happy when I ran a patch down the barrel and it came back black.  Either the factory protectant is still in it or he put something else in there, but not a hint of rust and after about 15 patches returning with black on them still, I'm just going to pull the barrel today and give it a bucket of water and dish soap treatment to try to cut it all out of there.  Dropping my bore light down the bore after the 15 or so patches showed a very nice and smooth looking bore.
The lock does have a half cock position that works, and full cock catches as well.  The front trigger will release the hammer, but the set trigger doesn't click and make the front trigger lighter.  When you pull the set trigger you can see the front trigger twitch a bit, and then the front trigger when pulled will actually give a bit and make a small sound, but it still requires taking up more slack and a heavy pull to drop the hammer.  It was close to bed time and I didn't want to pull the lock and triggers out right then.  I did loosen the lock screws a bit, they were snug.  I also noticed that the adjustment screw between the two triggers was in quite a ways.  When I started turning it out it moved really easily, like the first one on my Renegade did that eventually fell out and was lost, so I removed it and gave it a bit of blue Loctite before putting it back in about half way.
More to come.

 

[BP Addict]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

"I'm also not sure if it had a half cock position...are they supposed to?'

Yes Renegadehunter, the "half-cock acts as a safety.

 

[Renegadehunter]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

Finally got a chance to pull the lock and triggers.  The lock performed as it should and the sear seated fully into the half cock and full cock notches.  The triggers, however, did not function correctly.  The set trigger wasn't catching and holding.  Both the lock and the triggers were kind of gummy feeling from years of sitting around, so I cleaned them both.  This did not cure the trigger problem. 
From reading the manual instructions that BP Addict posted, I decided to check the setting of the small screw located behind the rear trigger that the manual says "adjusts the height of the sear trip lever and power let off".  The manual says that it is set from the factory and shouldn't need adjustment.  It is supposed to be a half turn out from fully seated, which is where I found it to be.  I turned it out another half turn and bingo, the set trigger engaged and held.  I then installed everything into the stock, barely snugging the screws and then backing off a half turn, and checked it again...the set trigger was back to not engaging and holding.  Another half turn out on the small screw and now everything works as it should.  The full cock position is holding firmly when I smack it with the palm of my hand to test that it won't easily drop if bumped.  All appears to be good at this point in time.
I also noticed when I removed the barrel that the wedge pins weren't very tight at all.  The rear one could be pushed out with my thumb it was so loose, the front one wasn't real bad but not as tight as I'd prefer it to be.  It must've came out that way when he first built it, as I found that he had attempted to shim the rear one.  There was some of that thick/strong boxing type tape in there, it had dried all out and was falling apart.  I'd imagine the fit of these is related to the stock work he did and where the escutcheons come out at.  I took the wedge keys and gave each a slight bend, which resulted in them going back in firmly and holding well with no movement.
I believe she is ready to be fired. 
Since my FIL's FIL built it (is it easier to say my wife's grandpa on her mother's side? lol), I will be arranging a time when he can come shooting with us.  He built the gun just as a hobby and something to do in his free time, but knows very little about black powder shooting and thus just never got around to learning how to shoot it safely.  Even though he has now given it away, he seemed pleased and excited when I told him everything was working correctly on it now and he was going to be the first one to fire it.  
I appreciate everyone's help and comments, thanks a lot folks.

 

[Henry Frapp]

Re: "Made in USA" older CVA .50

Mine is a .58 that needs to be rebuilt. I don't know where the barrel was made, there's no location stamped on it.