Custom .54 cal., Green Mountain Barrel- Cracked Stock

[FisherCat]

My stock is cracked in 3 places:

1.) Lock Mortise from where the hooked breech of the barrel meets the tang through the lock mortise ( 1 3/4”) and enters just about
1/4 “ above the point on Siler Lock Inlay. There
is Visible crack 1/2” and a hairline crack that wraps around towards wrist neck of stock.

2.) This crack starts 3/8” above lock screw.
Left to radius wood rib and right about 1”.

3.). This visible crack runs from top lock screw hole to the right and is about 2” long. Then, there is a hairline crack that wraps towards the wrist neck of stock.

I have extensively researched this issue.

Some people have refuted what other people have stated with respect to fixing a horizontal wood crack.

Therefore, I would appreciate anyone’s comments.

I plan on doing the following:

a. Epoxy fluted (2) 1/4” diameter fluted dowel and drill screw holes.
b. Tang area, angle & drill 1/16” pilot holes, then drill 1/8” holes 2” deep ( under cracks)
c. Glass bed under tang stem.
d. Glass bed under tang barrel part.
2. Glass bed underneath barrel to about 1” from first wedge/barrel tenon inlay.
3. Glass bed lock mortise area,


Questions:

1. For the drilled holes....
Should I use epoxy?
Can the bedding material work ( Miles Gilbert Bedrock epoxy).
Can glue work?

2. Should I use a fluted 1/8” wooden dowel rod
or a threaded brass rod in the holes. (Glue or epoxy)?
Or just use epoxy or glue separately with no rods.

3. Should I try to fill in and feed the glue in the visible horizontal cracks with forced air.

Thank You for your consideration!

 

[fishdfly]

Two suggestions:

1. Post pictures of the cracks, will help to see what needs to be
done.
2. Go over to the sister forum to here:
The Muzzleloading Forum
Post what you have written here with pictures and put it in
"The Gun Builders Bench", they are some true craftsman there.

 

[one-shot]

Buy waterproof glue that has a long working time. Walk/force it into the crack with a flat slim putty knife. It will take a while. Use surgical tubing to get the required pressure. Buy fresh tubing and stretch it like Hexx. Glue will not stick to the tubing and you can not compress the wood with it. Double triple layer. The exercise stretch tapes of different colors work too, but not near as well. Your wood/stock is not sealed. Water is getting in.

 

[FisherCat]

Thank you!

 

[FisherCat]

Two suggestions:

1. Post pictures of the cracks, will help to see what needs to be
done.
2. Go over to the sister forum to here:
The Muzzleloading Forum
Post what you have written here with pictures and put it in
"The Gun Builders Bench", they are some true craftsman there.

Ok .... Thank you ... I will post probably tomorrow with Pictures

 

[FisherCat]

Ok .... Thank you ... I will post probably tomorrow with Pictures

Two suggestions:

1. Post pictures of the cracks, will help to see what needs to be
done.
2. Go over to the sister forum to here:
The Muzzleloading Forum
Post what you have written here with pictures and put it in
"The Gun Builders Bench", they are some true craftsman there.

 

[Idaholewis]

Bummer deal! That’s a fine looking Rifle you have there, I hope you get it Fixed

 

[FisherCat]

Bummer deal! That’s a fine looking WEAPON you have there, I hope you get it Fixed

yes.... Thank You ..... I hope it can be fixed!

 

[Magnum]

Compressed air can really get that glue deep. Sqeegee the glue the best you can into the crack and then give it a little shot of air to blow it in. Do that a few times and watch how it squeezes out when you apply clamping pressure. Epoxy cleans up well with denatured alcohol before it sets and shouldn’t hurt an oil finish in short term.

 

[idahoron]

I have tried to glue and pin cracks like that. I have never had any luck. My gun recoils too much to make it hold. If you are using light loads and PRB you might get it.

 

[fishdfly]

Not qualified to make recommendations on the repairs, but your thoughts on repairing I have read in other places and they are in line.

Some use Super Glue in different thicknesses to fill in the cracks. They use a hair drier to make it flow into the cracks.

Need fluted dowels or a vent hole so the glue will flow in to the drilled holes.

Good luck, repairs can be done.

 

[FisherCat]

I have tried to glue and pin cracks like that. I have never had any luck. My gun recoils too much to make it hold. If you are using light loads and PRB you might get it.

Ok..... Thanks!

 

[FisherCat]

Not qualified to make recommendations on the repairs, but your thoughts on repairing I have read in other places and they are in line.

Some use Super Glue in different thicknesses to fill in the cracks. They use a hair drier to make it flow into the cracks.

Need fluted dowels or a vent hole so the glue will flow in to the drilled holes.

Good luck, repairs can be done.

Thank You for the advice and information!

 

[FisherCat]

Compressed air can really get that glue deep. Sqeegee the glue the best you can into the crack and then give it a little shot of air to blow it in. Do that a few times and watch how it squeezes out when you apply clamping pressure. Epoxy cleans up well with denatured alcohol before it sets and shouldn’t hurt an oil finish in short term.

I appreciate your input!

 

[HC]

Hide glue is very good for aged wood. Only downfall is it takes a couple days to cure in the clamps. It will definitely penetrate the pores of the wood.

 

[eekjellander]

Not qualified to make recommendations on the repairs, but your thoughts on repairing I have read in other places and they are in line.

Some use Super Glue in different thicknesses to fill in the cracks. They use a hair drier to make it flow into the cracks.

Need fluted dowels or a vent hole so the glue will flow in to the drilled holes.

Good luck, repairs can be done.

(Hot stuff ) requires clamping 1st and then applying as it flows in to crack , works great for sealing barrel channels too/Ed

 

[brad502a]

use epoxy. good epoxy do not use the five minute dry stuff. brownells acraglas, use the original not the gel. this is more "liquid" and will allow it to get into the crack. use brownells threaded stock repair pins covered in epoxy. they were made for this kind of repair. i would also use a deck screw through the stock countersunk under the tang. the tang will hide it no one but you will know it is there. size it so it does not protrude into the trigger area. use pilot drills for everything! Do the deck screw last after you forced epoxy in the crack and wrapped the stock with surgical tubing. use epoxy on the deck screw as well.