Kibler Woodsrunner extra fancy

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I am not real good with machine work, not so good with wood working.

SO I got a Woodsrunner kit with extra fancy Maple and the CNC carving. .50 cal because there is a lot of .50 cal ammo.

Even with my clumsy hands it just fell together. I used Kibler's great Youtube videos and did what he said and the outcome made me feel like I had created something! It is not as good as more skillful people, but I like it! I also felt a bond with it, sorta feeling like I had birthed it.

I am amazed how well done the kit assembly comes together. Looks as good as a custom made rifle. Kibler researched and built an exact copy of a custom, high end 1760 longrifle.
 

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Very nice!!! You should be proud! Don't think I could do that at all. No patience.
I have no patience! I wet sanded the stock. Went over it with 220 grit. Did it again and called it good enough. Put it down. Just be able to put it down every once in a while. THEN get a cold beer!

Came back the next day. Added Iron nitrate as per Jim Kibler. There was another chemical (Forgot what, but Jim suggested it) and wiped it down after drying. Sealed it with Wipe-on poly. Light sanding. More poly, 0000 steel wool. Jax brown on the metal. Installed the hardware. Waxed it and went shooting.

But I was scared I would screw it up, but it really worked out.

SO I just bought a Southern Mountain Rifle .45 cal in "Select Maple." Will be even easier It is amazing how well the kit bolts together!
 
Congratulations Marplot. Bree emailed me yesterday my .54 woodsrunner in cherry is in the mail today! I am as nervous/anxious as a fox in a hens house! I am very interested in your builds, especially the lock. This seems the hardest part for me to understand how to finish it. How did you do yours? Did you take it apart? Anything you can tell me would help. I do not want a closet queen, but a good looking hunting gun that will go into the briars and tree stands alike. Ty shorty
 
Couple of suggestions

Work slowly and you will find you need to stop. Just relax. You really won't make any mistakes. Well.... you will make a few mistakes. I strongly urge that you NEVER point out your mistakes and just get with it and most likely your "mistakes' will never be noticed by other people looking at your finished work!

I made plenty, but no one has noticed them. I am making another kit, Southern Mountain Rifle, and will do better! So will you!

Be careful taking the stock out of the box. It is very light weight. Don't ding it when handling.

Find Jim Kibler's youtube videos. He goes into detail. Part 1, Part 2, etc

Lock. I got a mainspring vise. Remove the mainspring and disassemble the lock. I used Jax. He sells it. Go slow with a small paintbrush. Light coats. Use same thing on your barrel. NOTE Install the sights BEFORE browning the barrel. Your dovetails may get slightly filled in and make it hard to install the sights later!

I got Maple stock. Not what to use with cherry. Jim will probably tell you. If nervous about stain, sand the barrel groove and try different stains. The barrel will cover that part.

Wet the stock with a rag. Let it dry and sand with 150 grit to get rid of whiskers. Do it twice. Test fit the barrel. put it in the channel, not yet for the wires. tighten the tang screw. Check the fit of the tang. If you are a real stickler, put a light coat of Prussian Blue (Amazon) on the metal. It will show any high spots. Get a good, small, sharp chisel. Or just don't worry about it.

The brass parts will have minor casting. Get a fine draw smooth file for the casting lines. Not a very big deal anyhow. You also can use the same "Smooth File" (Amazon) along the barrel and smooth out machine flaws.

A few minor tweaks. You will need to insert wires to hold barrel, trigger guard, thimbles- critical! Before driving in wires, smooth the driven in point so no sharp edges. Standardize and work on one side of the stock. I come in from the left. I also got a 1/16th drill bit, and drill about 1/4 inch from the right. The wire coming in can catch a splinter on the far side and pull a splinter. If you drill first, you should be ok.

My ramrod would not fit through the thimble or stock guard. I chucked mine in a drill and spun it with 80 grit until it fit. Then sand with 150 and then 220. Sliding the rod back and forth while sanding longitudinally.

Personally, I used "Wipe-on Poly" Home Depot for final stock. two coats rubbing with 0000 steel wool. Or 220 grit. If using SW, wipe down before adding coats of Poly or whatever you are final coat.

There is a longer screw to hold the lock to the side plate. The longer screw goes in the rearmost place.

The above will bond you and finish the rifle. BUT, it is pretty much finished as you get it. Several Friends just stain the stock, assemble it and go shooting!

Caveat: My advice is worth what you have paid <grin> I am a newbie in the above. Once you have finished your rifle and, therefore have lost your virginity, you can use what you have learned and help the next guy!

Good luck and good shooting! You have bought the best kit on the market.
 
Thank you so much Marplot !! I have read a bunch and have asked questions a lot. I will do as you say, and know a bit about wood working. The finishing the steel is a little scary for me. I have the browning solution as you stated. I will have to order the lock spring tool. Wish you lived closer as i would have a cold brew or two with you and see if the black smoke has magic in it.. thank you Shorty
 
Glad to help! Watch the browning solution can get into where parts can meet up and make some rust. Just brown the outside parts, not the face of the frizzen, it should be clean and where you spark. Also the touchole just use light strokes with brush.
 

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