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How would you detect it with a chronometer?The best way to detect blow-by gasses in the bore, is with a chronometer,
How would you detect it with a chronometer?The best way to detect blow-by gasses in the bore, is with a chronometer,
I believe they are talking about differences in velocity. But honestly I think the velocity difference would be insignificant unless the bullet was undersized to begin with.How would you detect it with a chronometer?
A welcome change from the old wifes tales found on the internet, right up there with seasoning your barrel with bore butter !!!/EdThis myth may have started with smooth bores. Mainly cannon. They used wads to seal the undersized steel balls, which did not expand in the bore.
Obturation effects all types of metal, but at different rates and some, due to their hardness, the effect is negligible. Lead, is malleable enough to be compressed into the grooves of rifling, whereas steel is not.
If a bullet is not sealed in the bore, the loss of gas pressure will result in a loss of velocity. Also the burning gas will act like a torch and burn into the metal. This will cause an enormous loss in accuracy. If there are blow-by gasses, this will occur on the bearing sides as well as the base of the bullet. If no blow-by gasses, it will only occur to the base of the bullet. Either way, there is a loss of accuracy; However, it would be more extreme in a non-sealed bore with blow-by gasses.
The best way to detect blow-by gasses in the bore, is with a chronometer, due to the loss in pressure versus a sealed bore. Also, accuracy may be used. In the blow-by situation, most of the bullet's surface is effected and an extreme loss of accuracy should be noted. With a sealed bore, only the bottom of the bullet is effected and accuracy will be diminished, but not to the extreme level of a blow-by situation.
Sorry, the engineer in me is coming out.
I thought you seasoned a bore with "Old Bay"A welcome change from the old wifes tales found on the internet, right up there with seasoning your barrel with bore butter !!!/Ed
If gasses are blowing by the bullet in the bore, it means there is less gass to push the bullet. If there is just a small pin hole. the gas will cut through it like a torch. If there is less gas to push the bullet, there is less pressure. That means lower velocity.How would you detect it with a chronometer?
Yeah, I’m just thinking you probably mean chronograph?If gasses are blowing by the bullet in the bore, it means there is less gass to push the bullet. If there is just a small pin hole. the gas will cut through it like a torch. If there is less gas to push the bullet, there is less pressure. That means lower velocity.
Yes. I did. Although both use time as a base, one does more with it.Yeah, I’m just thinking you probably mean chronograph?
Again you'd be wrong but I quit , this is ridiculous arguing with a know it all who doesn't/EdThe more I think on this the more I realize that using a chronograph would be useless. I would almost guarantee that any changes in velocity would be insignificant. I would also guarantee that using a lubed full bore properly fitting conical no gases would be able to blow completely past the bullet. Any reduction in accuracy would be the direct result of hot gases deforming the base of the bullet. A bit of lube on the wad would help a lot. It can be easily proved by using a blower attachment on a compressor and note the difference on the amount of air flow thru the wad with and without lube. I tried it.
With the pressure turned down there is quite a bit more air flow thru the dry wad over the lubed one.
DR, when shooting hollow base bullets I use a ball of wool as a wad. Just as it comes off the sheep. Well, it’s washed but that’s it. I use a piece about the size of one of my wifes cotton balls and it serves the same function as a wad except it doesn’t get stuck into the base of the bullet. Works very well.I am new to wads. In my 40 years of muzzleloading I never thought of using them. Now, I won't shoot without them, with the exception of hollow based bullets. I also never used them in revolvers. I used Crisco to coat the top of the exposed ball to prevent chain fires.
I am a natural experimenter. It's my personality. So, before I was on this forum, I made my own lube (discussed in another thread). It was a hard almost solid paste, which turned pure wool felt pads into little pucks. I assumed they melted a bit in the barrel. I never thought to look for used wads (how do I know mine from someone else's?).
I may try to lube 1/4 of the 1/8" felt pad, with my new home made lube. It would barely give it a skim of lube, and used face up, will not be in contact with the powder. I will only do this with my Renegades. Not in a new rifle where I'm trying to find a the right bullet and/or load.
I don't know the engineering behind the "Wonder Wads." It may be just a gimmick." It also, may be designed to spread during the heat of firing. I have them dry and lubed. I also bought Dura-Felt to punch my own, which is due to arrive today. I already have the punches.
Be cause the wad (LUBED) rides with the bullet destabilizing at yardage like sabots .o60 poly wads in ,myDon't just tell me I'm wrong. Explain why. With or without a wad, with a properly sized and lubed bullet it is almost impossible to get gas blow by the entire bullet, even with a patched round ball. I say almost impossible because there is a slim to none chance. That being said any velocity loss with a lubed wad or dry wad would be insignificant. And you can't tell me less gas doesn't pass thru a lubed wad vs a dry wad. Logic qould prove that is a fact.
Now please explain why I am wrong and if it makes sense and valid proof I will accept it.
Hi guys, first post here, just registered, and am loading minie and REAL bullets for the first time in my .50, .54 and .58 BP rifles, where I’ve always just used PRB. Sorry to dust off this year old thread, but it applies.Here's a link to where I bought mine. Duro-Felt Products
Have yet to punch any as I have not used up my dry wads from TOTW - Here's a link to there felt wad page. Felt wads for muzzle loading and black powder cartridges - Track of the Wolf
Flintlock, LLC sells them a couple of bucks cheaper but I have never tried them (yet) as I have no need to buy any for a couple or more years
I always use patch lube on round ball (make my own out of Vaseline, beeswax and hard wax) and it makes sense to me to also put some on an overpowder wad. (?)Well after a lot of reading apparently it doesn't make a difference whether lubed or dry. One consenses is that a lubed wad if over the powder for a length of time can contaminate some of the powder. If a paste type lube is used I can see where it may contaminate a couple granules of powder on the top - or more if stayed loaded for a long period of time. I wish I was able to go and shoot to do some testing but be able to get out until late May.
I have some punches, .50 is obvious, but will have to check the others to get the right diameter for .54 and .58. Or is the sizing absolutely critical? Maybe a little over would still be ok.I’ve had very good luck with felt and poly wads under big conicals. Buy some punches and make your own.
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