Lighten Omega trigger pull?

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twlkr

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I like my Omega. The extra thrity seconds to unscrew the breech plug is nothing. I like the fit and feel of the gun. The stainless steel barrel is a cinch to clean. It shoots small groups at 100yrds. But the trigger pull is awfull.

Is there a fix to get it down to, say, 3-4 lbs.?
 
Unless you are very skilled at such work, no easy fix. You could easily make the gun unsafe by honing too much and then be out the cost of a complete hammer/trigger assembly to correct. Perhaps TC would work on the trigger for you.
 
twlkr said:
I like my Omega. The extra thrity seconds to unscrew the breech plug is nothing. I like the fit and feel of the gun. The stainless steel barrel is a cinch to clean. It shoots small groups at 100yrds. But the trigger pull is awfull.

Is there a fix to get it down to, say, 3-4 lbs.?


http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=562 Call these people.
They should be able to direct you. I recently bought a TC pro hunter. I have the trigger parts out of the receiver now. I believe the parts are similar in the omega..not sure. With the encores..if you go too light then you have to change the angle of the sear engagement..I have read. This is my first TC trigger job. I have the NEF's downpat!! :lol:
 
squirrelhawker
The Triumph and the Omega are quite different from the Encore.
Its not to bad to do yourself if you have good enough instructions, some thing like the down load Bellm has for the Encores. For some reason or other TC trigger parts are rough as the come from the factory and if you hone the roughness of with out changing the angles of the surface any it often makes the trigger much better.They are not real complicated but you may well have a difficult time getting them back together with out a real good set of instructions. Lee
 
Lee 9 said:
squirrelhawker
The Triumph and the Omega are quite different from the Encore.
Its not to bad to do yourself if you have good enough instructions, some thing like the down load Bellm has for the Encores. For some reason or other TC trigger parts are rough as the come from the factory and if you hone the roughness of with out changing the angles of the surface any it often makes the trigger much better.They are not real complicated but you may well have a difficult time getting them back together with out a real good set of instructions. Lee

The actual trigger engagement parts looked similar in a drawing I saw. I have never handled an encore. They both use the hammer block mechanism....from what I saw in diagrams. Maybe not the same EXACT parts..but the same principle. What is so different?
I took the pro-hunter I bought the other week apart. Ive done mechanical work for years and lots of gun stuff. I could figure out how to work this trigger without anybody's instructions..(not to toot my horn too loud.ha ha ) This stuff isnt brain surgery. :) I might try to make my own spring out of music wire. This pro-hunter I bought has about a 5 lb. pull...way too high for any serious shooting ,for me anyway. This pro-hunter I bought was with a 45-70 govt. barrel...I am going to make it into a 45 cal. ML. :lol: I will try to post pics...
 
squirrelhawker
I just finished my Endeavor, I did my Omega to, I never needed to touch the Triumph as far as the trigger is concerned, I do take it apart for a good cleaning now and then. I used to have a shop and build custom guns and you would not believe how many people would come in with there parts in a bag or a gun they had taken apart and put back together wrong.
For that reason I do not like to encourage people to tear into guns the people with enough mechanical ability don't need any encouragement.
As for the differences the parts that engage the trigger mechanism to the locking mechanism are quite different and can be put in wrong. Lee
 
I see your point Lee. Thats the thing with firearms, blackpowder or otherwise, a guy has to know what he is doing is safe. Most guys know their limitations when it comes to mechanical things. This encore pro-hunter trigger really is simple when you pull the pins and set the parts out. I will try to post pics of what I do to mine. Anybody has any questions they need to be sure to ask. No such thing as a stupid question...right?
 
twlkr said:
I like my Omega. The extra thrity seconds to unscrew the breech plug is nothing. I like the fit and feel of the gun. The stainless steel barrel is a cinch to clean. It shoots small groups at 100yrds. But the trigger pull is awfull.

Is there a fix to get it down to, say, 3-4 lbs.?

twlkr,
Just to let you know...I talked to cust. service at TC and they will hone your trigger parts to reduce your pull at no charge. The lowest they will go (at the factory) is 3 1/2 lb. They wont put a different spring in. Just wanted to let you know you had that option. I am honing the parts on my new pro-hunter and should be able to get it down to 3.5lb. with the honing alone. I am going to post pics hopefully when Im done. I might change the spring on the hammer block piece too, as I would like to go down to about 2-2.5.
 
squirrelhawker
Thanks for the info, if I can't find a good set of instructions I will give TC a call, after this years deer season.

I have read nothing but good raves for their cutomer service.

Instructions with pics will be welcomed. I would hate to take my scope off again to send the Omega. Seems I have been remounting scopes a couple of times a year for several years for one reason or anouther.
 
squirrelhawker
do you use teflon tape on your breach plug? It reduced the blow back on mine considerable. Lee
 
Lee 9 said:
squirrelhawker
do you use teflon tape on your breach plug? It reduced the blow back on mine considerable. Lee

No, actually I have been using the white "food grade" anti-seize on my
plugs for quite a while now. I have heard a lot of guys like the tape. We used it at my job for sealing fittings...good stuff. The plugs my buddy machined for me (for the NEF's) have a real good thread fit too. As far as the .45 barrel for my pro-hunter..that plug will not have ANY threads.. :wink: getting that one made now. Hope to show some pics when done.
 
twlkr said:
squirrelhawker
Thanks for the info, if I can't find a good set of instructions I will give TC a call, after this years deer season.

I have read nothing but good raves for their cutomer service.

Instructions with pics will be welcomed. I would hate to take my scope off again to send the Omega. Seems I have been remounting scopes a couple of times a year for several years for one reason or anouther.

I honed the interacting surfaces of the trigger, hammer block, and hammer/ sear & notch. I got mine down from 5 to 3.5 without changing the spring. That is a strong spring too..designed by a lawyer :lol: . It is .043" wire. I have some .031" spring wire on hand. Im going to make a spring with that and see where that gets me. A fellow is better off to do as much as possible with honing the surfaces rather than JUST going with a really weak spring. Honing should be the first thing done. Need to get rid of as much friction as possible by making the surfaces like a piece of glass. The TC's use cast parts and there are rough areas from that. They (TC) cant afford to spend the time working on all the triggers from a cost standpoint and at least they offer to work on the ones of people that complain.. no charge. Some guys are more particular than others...when it comes to making the gun go BOOM!

I have been taking pics of the parts and such and will try to put something together. I am not very good at posting pics at least as far as pointing things out in a pic. Some of these guys are real whizzes at that. I dont know if my software will do that. Im sure someone in the forum can help with that. Have to do some work over at moms today... no playing with the guns :) .
 
twlkr said:
squirrelhawker's post looks good for an Omega. Maybe the directions will crossover:

http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... hp?t=13666

Good post. Thanks...

Lee9
NAPA Anit-Seize Lubricant Advance Formula resists temperatures up to 1600 degrees F. 16 oz will last me a life time and never a seized plug.

I like the "food" grade anti-seize. The white stuff. Wipes off hands easily.
To each his own.
 
True, it does leave your finger tips silver if any gets on them besides the cotton swab.
 

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