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Ten High

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I see recommendations to swab out the barrel with alcohol and then with dry patch before shooting if muzzlegun has been stored.
Which alcohol should be used, or does it matter?
For instance, would isopropyl alchol, either 70 or 90 % be ok to use?
Thanks for any info.
 
I can find 70% isopropyl more readily and use that sometimes. I also use the alcohol swabs that are supposed to be 70%. When I did find a bottle of 90% I bought it and it worked about the same as far as cleaning. I use an air compressor or bottled compressed air to blow the gun dry after a final cleaning so it probably doesn't matter. For swabbing between shots either does it, as I have used spit with no ill effects for the same purpose. The "before shooting" you mentioned is to get any oil or water (moisture) out. The evaporation helps remove the moisture so the 90% has a little more evaporative effect but the patch itself and the motion of swabbing is also displacing moisture. I have poured a capful of either potency isopropyl down the barrel and shook it up (with my finger over the nipple or flash hole). Turn the barrel over and let any remaining run out. Then blow air from nipple or vent hole. That gets into the breach and the deepest part of barrel where the powder will be.
 
Sparkitoff said:
I can find 70% isopropyl more readily and use that sometimes. I also use the alcohol swabs that are supposed to be 70%. When I did find a bottle of 90% I bought it and it worked about the same as far as cleaning. I use an air compressor or bottled compressed air to blow the gun dry after a final cleaning so it probably doesn't matter. For swabbing between shots either does it, as I have used spit with no ill effects for the same purpose. The "before shooting" you mentioned is to get any oil or water (moisture) out. The evaporation helps remove the moisture so the 90% has a little more evaporative effect but the patch itself and the motion of swabbing is also displacing moisture. I have poured a capful of either potency isopropyl down the barrel and shook it up (with my finger over the nipple or flash hole). Turn the barrel over and let any remaining run out. Then blow air from nipple or vent hole. That gets into the breach and the deepest part of barrel where the powder will be.
Sparkitoff
 I use denatured alcohol for ANY cleaning of guns or knife steel before I do any gluing or oiling. You can get a gallon of it for about $15.00 at your Home Dept, Lowes, or Ace TruValue hardware store. It cleans up varnish, Shellac, and ANY kind of grease very well too. Just a thought.
Stoney
 
90% is better as it has less water. De natured alcohol is great as well.
 
Denatured, is what I use at the range and for removing oil from the barrel after storage
 
Stubert said:
Denatured, is what I use at the range and for removing oil from the barrel after storage
Hi Stubert
 Thank you for your support of my theory. I use Good Natured Alcohol  :twisted: ;) for ALL of my de-greasing applications. I've never really found anything better! It leaves NO residue and will remove grease from almost anything. You DO need to be careful around certain plastics and Shellac finishes; since Alcohol is a thinner/solvent for Shellac and some plastics, PLUS...it's very flammable! Use extreme caution whenever working with any flammable liquids indoors. Also use some good ventilation. It's NOT Uranium, but it still deserves caution and good common sense.
God bless:
Stoney
 
I always use Denatured alcohol (DA) as well.  After soapy water cleaning, I run several dry patches until there isn't any sign of moisture or fouling.  Then I pour a capful of the DA through the nipple hole, wait about 5 minutes, blast some air through the nipple hole, and then run a couple more dry patches (both sides).  It then gets a light rust preventative swab and stored muzzle down.  When I take it back out I run a patch of DA through it with both sides of the patch and deem it ready to shoot. 
I've never had any trouble with rust or tar like fouling with the above method.
A high percentage alcohol can be tough to find in my experience, but DA can be easily found.  I also use the DA for a Dutch Schultz method of applying patch lube with Castor Oil.
 
I've been muzzle loading since the 70's and DA is what I've always used. I have 2 flinters, 2 caplocks  2-12 gauge shotguns, 2 pistols and an Old Army. There is NO rust anywhere, on any of them, in or out.
 
I recently started using this through Recommendation by a Friend on another forum, This stuff is 99% Alcohol, The Red Bottle stuff. Catch it on Sale at your local Auto Parts, I only paid 2 bucks for the last Bottle

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Nice tip Lewis, I often stock up on Heet (dry gas) when it's on sale to prevent any fuel line freeze ups.
 
Dry gas is alcohol, with todays fuel having 10% ethonol in it already, dry gas is not needed anymore. All you are doing is making your gas more than 10% alcohol.
 
OK Guys, not "Fireball", Double Dry is the Castle brand gas line dryer that is 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. Very good stuff BTW. "Heat" brand gas dryer is the one in the yellow bottle. It is also a very high isopropyl alcohol. Both can be used for cleaning of oils and glues and also as an alcohol stove fuel. Denatured is also very good too.
 
And here I thought I was the only one who uses Isopropyl (either 70% or 90%) to clean or wipe between shots. I've not had problems if I wipe, then go check target, the load as-is.. It evaporates quick in a warm barrel.
 
Denatured alcohol is the way to go. About $6-$7 a quart. Isopropyl has some impurities but will work. Denatured leaves no traces of anything. It is also the only thinner to use with shellac.
 
Idaholewis said:
I recently started using this through Recommendation by a Friend on another forum, This stuff is 99% Alcohol, The Red Bottle stuff. Catch it on Sale at your local Auto Parts, I only paid 2 bucks for the last Bottle
I have been using this since I read about it in Muzzle Blasts a few years ago, it works.   :ttups:
 
I have been using 90%  Isopropyl for at least 20 years, never a problem. I never gave dry gas a thought even though I knew it was alcohal, I will have to give it a try.


Jim
 
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