T/C Hawkin roundball and others

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cayuga

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With a new (to me) T/C Hawkin .50 caliber I wanted to tune it into a roundball shooter. Most my shots hunting are 30 to 50 yards max. Most of them 30 yards. So I brought the target in to 30 yards. I knew I had the sights close but never dreamed I was this close.

I was shooting 100 grains of Graf's & Sons 2f black powder. The reason for this is black powder is consistent. No matter how dirty it is, or what people think of black powder, if you want accuracy, shoot black powder. It will amaze you. I was also shooting cast ball I purchased from Gander Mountain. They are .490 diameter. And to set them of course I use 100% pillow tick with moosemilk I spritz right before loading.

I swabbed the barrel clean of any oil, popped a couple caps through it and loaded up. My first shot was real good I thought, just off the dead center of the bull at 30 yards. Without swabbing, the next two really started getting me excited.

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After that I started shooting roundball.

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This was the patches. They look beautiful out of that rifle.

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Then I decided I wanted to try some sabots out of this rifle. I was told that they would shoot well out of a 1-48 twist. Well I was surprised how well they shot.

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This was the first shot. I did swab with a spit patch between shots.

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When I did not swab, it did throw them a little bit. But over all I was kind of impressed with these Precision Rifle Extreme HP 300 grain sabots.
 
Sabots shoot really well! Looks like the roundball works as well. My Investarms rifles shoot just like that. Great shooting! Shot the dang middle out!
 
cayga, Great results! As for your moose milk, is it the Winchester Sutler version or is it home brewed? If home brewed, would you care to share your recipe?
 
There are two ways you can make this...

#1
4 ounces NAPA Auto Parts #765-1526 Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil
8 ounces 91% Isopropyl alcohol
1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap
16 ounces tap water

This is a good lube and you can add or subtract cutting oil to make it as rich or a light as you like.

#2 This was a reciepe by a person named Stumpkiller. He uses Castor Oil because it is a natural oil. So I tried his version after I went through a bottle of mine. I like it and still have some left, so I am still shooting it.

Castor Oil 4 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 15 oz.

Be sure when making the Moose milk to mix the alcohol and castor oil together first. Then add the witch hazel. Add all of this to the water and shake. Finally after that mixture is all together add the Murphy?s oil soap.

For a dry patch, I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between dips on a window screen. This makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. Also it works good in the winter. As the material dries it holds the oil. Personally I like to spritz with liquid lube onto a dry patch. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.

This is what I was using today.
 
Cayuga, I like the looks of both of those recipes, but especially the first one...with the cutting oil and alcohol etc. It would probably be a good oil to use as a rust protectant when gun is not in use. I'm starting to get fired back up about these side hammer ML's and those good groups you shot are getting me fired up all the more. Great range report!
 
Dave...I think you got a really good deal on that Hawkin .50. It will really put the roundballs in there! IMO it's hard to be a T/C Hawkin. They look great with really good workmanship.

Thanks for the moose milk recipes! I made a sticky out of it!

One thing I use as a patch lube from time to time...Ballistol and water 1:1. That does a good job for me... I also use that to clean bores sometimes and it does a good job at that as well...
 
I could never get used to the smell of Ballistol. I have used about anything you can think of for a patch lube from boot oil, snow seal, hand cleaner, etc.. but I always come back to moosemilk.
 
I use olive oil. It doesn't hurt the stock finish.

How hard is it to load? I can barely get a .490 down the barrel of mine with a pillow ticking patch.
 
The starting of the .490 is tight, a good sharp rap with the short nose of the starter. But once I am actually in the throat of the barrel, with my stainless steel ramrod, its one long steady push to the powder charge...
 

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