Sighting-in the 2117's...

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Marty1

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Just like a smoke pole, whenever you change loads you need to hit the range and sight-in. I changed-out my 2219’s for 2117’s so that I could drop my draw poundage down to 60 lbs.
The first 6 rounds at 30 yards with the 2117’s were terrible and all over the place.
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After I made a spine adjustment to my arrow rest, I was finally happy at 30 yards with this last round of three. This is as far a distance as I will ever go with this compound on deer.
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Feeling confident ( 😛but really for giggles! 😁) I launched ½ dozen arrows out to 40 yards.😲
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That “flier” low on the target still bugs😑 the heck out of me. That's why I don't take 40 yard shots.
Archery seasons in MA starts in my Zone on OCTOBER 7th. :)
 
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Nice shooting Marty, looks like you're ready to go!
It sure doesn't take much of a form flinch on the shot to make an arrow a bad flier does it? Or did the shot feel good? If it did you might mark that arrow just for future testing. I number one of the fletchings on all new arrows so I can identify which is which. I just had one a while back that wasn't hitting with the group and it turned out it was the same arrow every time. Spun the nock 180° and the darn thing started grouping with the others. I put it down to being a dynamic spine thing.
I've missed the whole target at 60 with a bit of a flinch on the shot, doesn't take much at distance.
 
Thanks Renegadehunter. Regarding that flier, I knew it was a dud the moment I released the arrow. " Anchor, Aim, and Follow-Through" has always been my mental mindset. I simply did not follow-through on the shot.
 
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Nice Marty. You don't have a problem with aluminum arrows bending?
 
I shot aluminum arrows for years. I think I bent more pulling them out of a target than anything else. A little care when pulling them from the target and they stay straight for quite a while.
I got pretty good at setting the point in the palm of my hand and spinning them to see if they had any wobble to them. If they did then they became a grouse arrow.
I'd say I really don't find carbon arrows to be all that much stronger than aluminum arrows, they are just nice in that they are either straight or broken. Still a trade off to me, I had to spin the aluminum arrows here and there to see if they were still straight and have to flex the carbon arrows to ensure they don't creak or make any funny noises.
Ever seen one of those pictures of a carbon arrow through somebody's hand because it came apart at the shot? Makes a guy want to go back to aluminum.
 
Nice Marty. You don't have a problem with aluminum arrows bending?
I've always used aluminum arrows with my compound. Since the poundage on my compound is adjustable between 55 lbs.- 70 lbs., I can use many different aluminum sizes. XX75 quality Eastons are what I buy...never found a need to spend the extra bucks for the XX78's. I've found that once you go below a wall thickness of 16/1000- inch thick shaft wall, they can bend pretty easy when you miss the target.
My compound 2117's which I'm using now weigh 505 grains. For comparison my wooded arrows for my traditional bows weigh in at 564 grains. I've used arrows as heavy as 632 grains (31 inch, 2419's in XX75's) in my compound. I like heavy arrows. They're slower but much quieter.
 
I shot aluminum arrows for years. I think I bent more pulling them out of a target than anything else. A little care when pulling them from the target and they stay straight for quite a while.
I got pretty good at setting the point in the palm of my hand and spinning them to see if they had any wobble to them. If they did then they became a grouse arrow.
I'd say I really don't find carbon arrows to be all that much stronger than aluminum arrows, they are just nice in that they are either straight or broken. Still a trade off to me, I had to spin the aluminum arrows here and there to see if they were still straight and have to flex the carbon arrows to ensure they don't creak or make any funny noises.
Ever seen one of those pictures of a carbon arrow through somebody's hand because it came apart at the shot? Makes a guy want to go back to aluminum.
Another quick way to check for arrow shaft straightness is to form a hard " V " groove in one hand using your thumb nail and middle finger nail, then spin the arrow away from you with the other hand while it rides between the fingernails. You will feel the shaft wobble where it's not straight. If the shaft is straight it will glide smoothly between your fingernails.
 
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