free floating

[Nutt189]

I did some work on the stock on my omega. There were a few spots on one side where the barrel was touching. After I got it where uyou could run a dollar bill between the stock and the barrel I have to tweak the stock to put the ramrod in. It let the barrel move over that far. Anyone else have this with the omega stock?

 

[Confederate rifleman]

Wood or tupperware? My Z5 had the same partial contact issue you mentioned and was extremely accurate.The only synthetic I ever saw on a muzzleloader that was worth anything was the one on my old Knight American.That sucker was SOLID , not a shell like every other one I've seen including the T/C's.

 

[Nutt189]

Synthetic. It shot just over mow at 100 just trying to get beTter. I couldn't of made it worse could i

 

[sabotloader]

Nutt189

Not only did I have to do some work on the barrel channel - I also installed a harwood block between the recoil lugs to holl the action one spot.

If your stock is that bowed - I think I would send it to TC they will replace it.

This is the text write up for the Omega but it is lengthly sorry...

The Omega? A weakness is the black synthetic stock supplied with the gun. The same black stock is provided from the less expensive Z5 model to the more expensive Stainless steel models.

The weaknesses of this stock? IMO, are the flexible forearm and the shallow recoil lug pockets in the stock. In fact you should inspect these lug pockets each time you take your rifle down for cleaning. These pockets can crack and will allow the barreled action to move on recoil, TC will warranty your stock if these cracks appear. Another thing you should look for in your stock is a polish mark(s) along the barrel channel in the stock. If these marks are appearing, that is the point at which the barrel is making heavier contact with the stock than other places and will cause the POI to move.

It is my opinion that I would prefer a barreled action that fits snugly in the stock with equal pressure on all points along the barrel, in other words fully bedded or a heavier stock that will not flex. This is expensive for a manufacturer to do when producing mass production rifles so for them the least expensive alternative is to produce stocks that provide a free floating barrel.

Normally when you purchase a synthetic Omega the barreled action will fit somewhat snugly in the stock. It will not remain that way over time and even though it might seem snug it is not equal.

There really is not a lot we can do about the flexibility of the stock especially in the forearm, but there are things that can be done to reduce its effects of the forearm pushing on the barrel.

The easiest fix is to float the barrel, move the barrel from contact with the barrel channel in the stock. One of the time tested ways of checking ?floating? is to slide a dollar bill under the barrel from the fore-end back to the receiver, leave the ram rod in place.

To float the barrel ? in my mind to methods one is much simpler than the other but really both are on the easy side.

Method #1? Simply shim the barreled up in the stock. I did this for a couple of seasons before I moved to the second easy step. Place a shim in the recoil lug pocket this will lift the action up and cause the barrel to lift in the stock. I made my shims from one of my wife?s Teflon cutting sheets. It is the perfect thickness, and everyone knows the durability of Teflon. Cut the shim to fit snugly in the bottom of the lug pocket punch a hole in the center of the shim for the lug bolt and install the barreled action. You should now be able to easily slide the dollar bill to slide under the barrel to the action. NOTE: because the pockets are so shallow I would not lift the action any higher than the thickness of one of these shims, and I suggest the reinforcement of the lug pockets as discussed later.

Method #2? Sand the barrel channel to fit the barrel. This is not as easy as it sounds but start by sanding the polished marks out of the barreled channel. As you remove these pressure points they will be replaced by other pressure points along the barrel. You will then continue to sand out points until the barrel sits snugly in the stock along its length, and further shooting does not cause further polished points.

Another simple fix you might consider? Look at the recoil pockets in the stock. It is a very simple fix to reinforce the lug pockets. This fix will stop the possible front to back movement of the action and probably stop the cracking of the pockets. I would suggest that you fill the area between the pockets with a fiberglass compound. Fill to the top of the two pockets, when this dries and hardens you will have really reinforced the strength of the pockets and the stock.

The best fix? Have the barreled action bedded in glass, both the action and the barrel. I am just not sure the expense of this operation justifies what might be gained for a hunting rifle.
If this were a competition target shooter, bedding could be and would be justified.

 

[Nutt189]

I had contact on both sides. But the more I sanded on the left the more the barrel moved that way. That's the only reason there was contact on the right. I bet I took o er a 1/16 off on the left side. Doesn't touch anywhere now but there in one heck of a gap on the right side

 

[sabotloader]

Nutt189

This is the statement that worries me a bit:

I have to tweak the stock to put the ramrod in. It let the barrel move over that far.

If you are tweaking the stock to put the ram rod in then you are probably adding some pressure (left & right) to the end of the barrel as the ram rod sits in its spot. This will effect accuracy - try shooting for accuracy with and without the ram rod in place.

Can not believe I can not remember the names of the ram rod rings.... Gees!

 

[choc-dog]

Sabotloader,

I believe they are refered to as 'Thimbles".

Chocdog

 

[Semisane]

Can not believe I can not remember the names of the ram rod rings.... Gees!

At your age it's a wonder you remember you name. :lol:

 

[sabotloader]

choc-dog

I thank you mr. Dog - ur write "thimbles"


Semi

You are right - I am just lucky that i run into enough people that call me by name and remind me - but there aresome along the way that really do not like to hear....

 

[Underclocked]

also sometimes called ferrules.

 

[Nutt189]

I never shOot with the ramrod in the thimbles. Another question. There should be no contact even at the back of the barrel by the breech plug

 

[sabotloader]

Nutt189

I never shOot with the ramrod in the thimbles.

What you do with the ram-rod while you are hunting?

Another question. There should be no contact even at the back of the barrel by the breech plug

I am not sure what you might be asking in this question?

 

[Nutt189]

Ramrod is on my backpack. As far as the barrel I have a. Polished mark clear at the back . It would be beside the breech plug. I noticed the stock tapers in right there. Wondering if I have more sanding to make it fully free floated with no contact except with the lugs

 

[sabotloader]

Nutt189

Ok now I understand... let me say this if you have a polish mark on the side of the stock back in the action area that tells me the barreld action is moving in the stock - which I do not think is such a good idea....

Check something for me.... very carefully look in the lug pockets of the stock. I have sent two TC Omega stocks back because of small fissures/cracks in the lug pockets. Over a period of time the shooting of the rifle and the recoil has caused the pockets to crack. The cracks do not go all the way through the stock but they do cause the pockets to enlarge allowing the action the ability to move back and forth a bit in the pockets. As you can see the pockets are not very deep at all - I told TC I thought they were minimal in strength and depth. Because of this cracking in the lug pockets i built that hardwood block that inserts in between the pockets and stops the recoil movement of the barreled action in the stock. Onter thing I do when I assemble the rifle I stand it on the butt and make sure the barreld action is all the way to rear of the lug pockets and then I tighten the two action screws equally snug - not really tight but equally snug.

The action rubbing the stock may not effect accuracy but it would bother me...

???? not sure if any of this helps you

 

[Nutt189]

Much help and thankyou. The lug pockets look good. The marks back by the action is from taking it in and out. Ir is a snug fit. So should I sand back there also.

 

[sabotloader]

Nutt189

My inclination is no - do not sand. The action should contact and provide support and stabilization of the reciever... Hope others chime in here - but for me I would say no...

 

[Nutt189]

I will leave that alone then. The actual working part of the barrel from the breech forward has no contact. Lots of sanding on the stock. Way more than I thought when I started. What I did can't make it shoot worse can it. Like I said it shot just over moa before I started sanding on the stock

 

[Nutt189]

I will leave that alone then. The actual working part of the barrel from the breech forward has no contact. Lots of sanding on the stock. Way more than I thought when I started. What I did can't make it shoot worse can it. Like I said it shot just over moa before I started sanding on the stock

 

[sabotloader]

Nutt189

I doubt that free floating will make it worse - it will be different but it should work OK...

 

[Nutt189]

I should of just got a different stock. I had to sand allot on one side. I will keep u posted on how it shoots. Thankyou for all the info on this