Just Some Thoughts

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Swampman

Well-Known Member
*
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
970
Reaction score
1
We tend to have a different mentality toward our inlines than we did toward our traditional guns. I like stainless myself, but let's face it blued and even unfinished iron traditional guns worked perfectly and lasted for years when properly cared for.

A frozen breechplug freaks us out but they were almost never removed on traditional guns, and I suspect you could use an inline for years without removing the breechplug as long as you cleaned the barrel after each use.

A pitted barrel is thought to be the end of the world, but I've owned many less than pristine barrels that shot great. I once had a Smith Corona 1903A3 with a pretty frosty bore. After talking to a few old USMC armorers (and at their suggestion) I cleaned it really good with Brasso. It looked much better. I repeated this after each shooting session and after a few times the barrel looked (almost new) and shot really well. I suspect Mother's Chrome Polish might work as well.

Walmart carries a heavy blue paper towel that is for the garage. Cut up in pieces they are good for cleaning barrels/guns in a pinch. Baby wipes work pretty good too and I've used them many times.

I've been using a grease marked MILITEC-1 Grease on my breechplugs for years. It was a free sample. I've never had one stick.
 
traditional is all i have right now. Cleaning my 54CAL CVA Mountain Rifle right now so i can go shoot it again. Think i need to order some .016 pillow ticking. These TC prelubed patches i think are giving me a headache.
 
I use pillow ticking soaked with spit, olive oil, or a mixture of olive oil/lard/bee's wax.

You can clean a gun really quick by filling the barrel about 1/2 full of windshield washer fluid or tepid water, sloshing it around real good, and then pouring it out. Two or three patches and it's clean.

I have used coffee in a pinch but that's wasting good coffee.
 
frontier gander
Those patches are one of the TC things I never had any luck, with I buy 20 thou. ticking and make my own. I find there are several grades of ticking and you have to measure it in the yard goods store to be sure you get the one you need. Lee
 
dang that is a waste, especially on a cold day.

I only fired 6 shots today so it came clean with only 3 patches.

I was looking at the prelubed patches and its no wonder im having a hard time getting groups. you hold the patch up and you see a tight weave, and then huge gaps, then back to a tight weave. All of the gaps/holes are in the center of the patch.

Never seen this with pillow ticking.
 
Wash it in hot water to get the sizing out before you use it. It also helps tighten the weave. Here's me and my Mike Brooks flintlock.

MarkLewis1.jpg
 
Lee 9 said:
frontier gander
Those patches are one of the TC things I never had any luck, with I buy 20 thou. ticking and make my own. I find there are several grades of ticking and you have to measure it in the yard goods store to be sure you get the one you need. Lee

Lee, i have some .018 blue/white ticking that i used for my GPR i had. Great stuff but i tried it in the mountain rifle and i have to swap inorder to get the next shot down. Or use a hammer :lol:

I'll see how this session goes first.

Also have some .020 ox-yoke patches. May experiment with the olive oil/crisco lube when i get back.
 
Swampman said:
Wash it in hot water to get the sizing out before you use it. It also helps tighten the weave. Here's me and my Mike Brooks flintlock.

MarkLewis1.jpg


Swampman,
Are you tall :?: ...because that rifle appears about as tall as me!
 
:evil: Patches.

the torn up patches are what i use as a buffer. I place one on top of the powder before i seat a ball wrapped in another patch. This gives me excellent accuracy but not with this newly opened bag of patches.
Picture065.jpg
 
frontier gander said:
:evil: Patches.

the torn up patches are what i use as a buffer. I place one on top of the powder before i seat a ball wrapped in another patch. This gives me excellent accuracy but not with this newly opened bag of patches.
Picture065.jpg

FG,
Those pillow ticking patches underneath the rifle...mine look like that all the time (or worse) out of my Lyman Deerstalker...you consider those bad?
 
yes they had burn thought spots in them. A good patch does not burn up/have any holes in it.

Plus the 2 shots that showed up measured 4"

I am washing my .018 pillow ticking right now and will try olive oil/crisco. I dont have any bee's wax yet. Although i do have some deer tallow i can try out if i can melt it out of the bottle.
 
Can you post a picture sometime of a patch you fired that looks like it is "supposed to"? Mine alway show burn/rips. Usually shoot about 90gr Pyrodex RS or Select out of the Lyman. Get pretty good 100yd accuracy out of a fouled bore too!
 
Sure i plan on some shooting tomorrow if the weather holds. I am washing my ticking right now and have the deer tallow on the wood stove to melt.
 
I know absolutely nothing about these traditional rifles. I know this forum is called MODERN muzzle loaders but I do like seeing and reading about the oldies also.
 
I didn't really intend for this to be about traditional guns, but that's ok. I'd hope it might stir up some thought.
 
when I read the title and who started it. the first thought on my mind, oh @#$%.

good thread swampman.

I have knight usak, pitting in the barrel. shoots 2" groups all day at 100yrds. if I do my part. loves prbs with 55grs of pyrodex rs. reusable patches.

my tc new englander turns .015 per lubed and patches I lube myself into puff balls (only way I can describe it). but great groups. can't get a group with .018 pillow tinkering. but they come out perfect. oh the world of muzzleloaders.
 
Back
Top