Replacing a CVA Drum

Frontier Muzzle Loading

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exMember

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A while back, I was cleaning and inspecting my brothers spare CVA Mountain Stalker. Removed the nipple, cleaning the thread when I noticed a good sized crack in the threads where the nipple screws into. Today for some odd reason, under a preview of items listed, I found a direct replacement CVA Drum! I bought that sucker up in a hurry.

What do you think? Soak that drum in penetrating oil for a good week before attempting to remove it?

Im thinking either a good pipe wrench or file some flats to fit a wrench on and see if it will break loose.
 

strong eagle

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Oct 11, 2016
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now this post i will watch as i think those drums go all the way through to the other side of the barrel. i dont think your going to break it loose by soaking. i would ask on every site that talks muzzleloader to see if anyone has a good answer. take the barrel out of the stock and put it in a vice, heat that area to a soft red, not beyond that to orange. if it is possible to come out it will come out then. looking forward to the results of this one and i bet many others all over the internet are also.
 

Sparkitoff

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Jun 8, 2018
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Some years they were press fit. Most go all the way through.  I am interested in your conclusion.
 

MattRaymond

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Oct 28, 2015
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Western MA
It might be quite difficult. They were installed and the threads go into the other side of the barrel, and then they were cut into for the patent breach. The replacement may involve drilling it all out and rethread the whole thing. Check with a guy named captchee on a forum called tradrag. I think he’s done it and he could probably tell you how to do it. 

Good Luck

Matt
 

exMember

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Original style
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newer style
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exMember

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Soaked it for close to 2 weeks in PB Blaster. I first tried unscrewing the drum but the metal was so soft it caved in on itself and so I cut it almost flush with the barrel and went to an easy out.

I heated up around the drum with a propane torch, installed the easy out and once it went all the way down flush, I cranked that sucker and the drum easily backed right out!

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exMember

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Now this is the slight issue. I've done this before in the past by shimming with a brass or copper washer which did the job fine. I think I'd have to turn the drum down on a lathe in order to bypass the washer?
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Marty

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Feb 3, 2009
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Location
Massachusetts
FG,  where can I get a double-handed cranking wrench like the one shown :?: 

My limited knowledge with these little hidden repairs always makes me nervous about buying a used sidelock.
 

exMember

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May 19, 2008
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Marty, that wrench is from a threading kit I have. I'd imagine a search on ebay or amazon will turn one up.

I ended up taking the advice of the old gun builders and did it by hand this morning. I used a jewelers file and carefully turned the drum down until everything lined up perfectly after a good heavy seating of the drum against the barrel. Everything lined up perfectly, better than factory actually. Next I will proof it and then get it all sighted in. Its good to have this one back! Has the 1:32 twist 50cal barrel on it that shoots the real bullets like a dream.
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exMember

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New drum is ready to be proofed tomorrow. I will have to soak the bore with alcohol to remove all the penetrating oil. but everything looks great on the inside.
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exMember

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This one is all fixed up and back in action! Proofing went fine and she shoots awesome with both the 370gr maxi ball and 250gr REAL bullet. Lots of powder in the drum. I'd remove the nipple and check for consistent flow into the drum/under the nipple and everything goods A-ok!
 

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