Is this normal???

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GWSmith

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Being very new to Muzzleloading I should tell you much more experienced shooters what happened on my first experience and get your opinions. My primary use for this weapon will be whitetail hunting.

The equipement:
Wolf 209 Magnum Break Action .50
Bushnell Sharpshooter Scope
295gr. Powerbelts HP
Goex FF
Winchester 209 Primers
CVA Brass Powder Flask
T/C Hunter Powder Measurer

I first got aquainted with the weapon by taking it apart, cleaning it, re-assembling it, and mounting the scope myself.
Following the DVD instructions, that I had watched no less than 20 times previously, that came in the outfit package I fired a primer first to remove any oil that may have been in the barrell.
Started out to find where the scope was going to shoot at 40yds/80gr ffg ...got the scope hitting where I wanted it to and spent the first 6 shots.
Stepped back to 100yds/90gr ffg/7shots also 125yds-same load/3 shots
(and yes...I janked up the last shot at 125 it went low)
Yes I agree that I need to get the scope dialed in more. I think in part at least the performance shown in the picture below is a start. I was getting used to shooting a ML for the first time. My focus was not so much on shooting Bull's but becoming familiar with a brand new weapon to me and making sure I did not miss any steps in the process.
Wet patch + Dry patch between each shot and I had alot of fun:
MuzzleLoader007.jpg



Product# AC1682 CVA's Breech Plug Anti-Seize Stick
AC1682.gif

16 shots without removing, or loosening between shots, the breech plug and all it took was a firm bump on the handle of the ratchet with a 12mm socket and it turned then just backed it out the rest of the way with fingers!

Cleaning of the weapon after use was done within 1hr and I used:
Product#AC1684 Barrell Blaster Wonder Gel per product instructions.
Barrell patches became clean after 3-4 passes.
My old habits played a part and I just had to use nitro solvent in the barrell and breech plug threads to make sure everything was as clean as possible. I used the supplied breech brush in the outfit's kit and screwed it into the threads of the breech, sprayed some nitro solvent on it, and then unscrewed it back out. I used a dry patch over the brush, and used the same process without the solvent, to make sure that the threads were clean afterwards and it came out clean.
Breech Plug was soaked in Nitro solvent and threads thoroughly cleaned including spraying solvent through fire channel. Breech plug was wiped dry and Anti-Seize stick was re-applied to the entire threads before replacing in barrell. It was snugged tight as much as possible by hand and then checked by using the supplied breech plug wrench but without anything but firm pressure it did not turn any more...I did not want to over-tighten it.
I sprayed Rem-Oil on a patch and ran it down the bore working it back and forth a few times and wiped down the outside of the barrell with Rem-Oil as well before re-assembling the weapon.


Last night after joining this forum I ran a dry patch down the bore again and it came out clean with a very slight amount of oil on it. I was happy to see that there was no rust or other debris as well.
 
Hey GW and welcome to the forum! 8)

Looks to me as if you did really well. One thing I would do is to not limit myself to just trying the 295gr Powerbelt or JUST Powerbelts. Many shooters are finding that the Powerbelts are NOT the best shooters in their rifles. If it were me I'd want to try a 240gr/250gr XTP or 250gr Shockwave/SST in that rifle..same powder charge. Less recoil and flatter trajectory to boot!
 
Thanks Chuck

I know I have a ton to learn about this so I hope not to bother anyone with the questions.
I just measured the length of the inside of the barrell, with the breech plug installed, using the ramrod and it measures 22-5/8".
I'm assuming that there would be a threshold of powder thats burned in that length of time/inches of barrell before it becomes a waste???
Do the Saboted bullets leave alot of plastic behind in the barrell???
 
I'm assuming that there would be a threshold of powder thats burned in that length of time/inches of barrell before it becomes a waste??

Well you certainly do reach a level of powder charge where one gets diminishing returns.. GENERALLY speaking 90-110gr of Triple Se7en/Black/Pyrodex is right in the the ballpark of advisable charges in .50cal muzzleloaders...

Do the Saboted bullets leave alot of plastic behind in the barrell???

I've never had that problem when using Triple Se7en/Pyrodex....
 
GWSmith,
I posted links to two bullets Chuck just suggested (240/250 XTP) in your other post. That's what I would suggest as well. I also gave you contact information for Del Ramsay/MMP sabots so you can shoot them.
 
Cleaning of the weapon after use was done within 1hr and I used:
Product#AC1684 Barrell Blaster Wonder Gel per product instructions.
Barrell patches became clean after 3-4 passes.
My old habits played a part and I just had to use nitro solvent in the barrell and breech plug threads to make sure everything was as clean as possible. I used the supplied breech brush in the outfit's kit and screwed it into the threads of the breech, sprayed some nitro solvent on it, and then unscrewed it back out. I used a dry patch over the brush, and used the same process without the solvent, to make sure that the threads were clean afterwards and it came out clean.
Breech Plug was soaked in Nitro solvent and threads thoroughly cleaned including spraying solvent through fire channel. Breech plug was wiped dry and Anti-Seize stick was re-applied to the entire threads before replacing in barrell. It was snugged tight as much as possible by hand and then checked by using the supplied breech plug wrench but without anything but firm pressure it did not turn any more...I did not want to over-tighten it.
I sprayed Rem-Oil on a patch and ran it down the bore working it back and forth a few times and wiped down the outside of the barrell with Rem-Oil as well before re-assembling the weapon.


Last night after joining this forum I ran a dry patch down the bore again and it came out clean with a very slight amount of oil on it. I was happy to see that there was no rust or other debris as well.[/quote]

I just read somewhere that nitro powder solvent and black powder is a bad thing. Not sure what the reason was but I recommend you check into this before a continued use of nitro solvent in a muzzleloader. Usually soap and water is enough and in my case I use a good oil after. Personally I do not like Rem Oil and I use Ballistol but that is another whole subject.
 
GW - sounds like you're on your way to a lot of fun.
Since I don't know exactly what sabots were recommended, I would just add that if your bore is quite tight, you may find that either the Crush Rib sabot by Harvester or the new 3-petal sabot by MMP will be what you need. I have a gun made by CVA, and it took me quite a while to find the right combination that would fit down the bore without serious strain.

Good Luck,

IM jaybe :)
 
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