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chrisamx

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I've been using a recurve for 45 years but I'm considering a compound for first time.  Not sure where to begin, but Ive seen some RTH bows being offered by Bass Pro Shops and others.  Does anyone have experience with rth and or recommendations, thanks in advance.

Chris
 
The first thing to do is set your budget.  That budget should consider the compound bow itself, arrows, quiver, sight, stabilizer and preferred arrow release.  I chose to purchase each component separately to build and personalize my compound bow from scratch.   If you're a hunter I'd go with a single cam compound.   They are slower but require less maintenance to stay in tune and are usually quieter.
 
I would say the best thing you can do is go shoot a few of them that are in your budget.  Most places with a pro shop, such as sportsmans warehouse, North40, etc., are more than happy to set up a few bows so you can shoot them if they have a short indoor range.  A single cam is a good suggestion by Marty, they simply do not go out of time on you.  I have a Bowtech with a binary cam system that is supposed to "slave" them together so they don't go out of time, but I have had it do just that once already as the string got more and more shots on it.  Not a lot...but enough to affect my groups so that I noticed something wasn't right.  I'm fine with that as I like the extra speed the cam system gives me, but others may not.
Most new bows are pretty dependable these days, there really isn't one I'd be worried about buying if I liked it...barring a Chinese knock off or something like that of course.  Some will have decent accessories that come with them and some won't. 
Take a day and go shoot some different ones.  Then you'll know what feels good to you, which ones are quieter, which ones have cheap accessories that rattle during the shot, smooth draw cycle, good back wall, good hunting type rest, fiber optic pins that aren't too big or too small, etc.

Amazon can be a great resource for reading reviews on items even if you don't plan to buy from them.

If you are going to shoot it instinctively with fingers, then disregard the next info, but once you choose one I highly recommend a d-loop and a peep size that matches the outside diameter of the sight.  I always choose a round style sight frame and then like the peep size to match to the sight frame so that I can align the sight frame with the outside edge of the peep.  It is like using a peep sight on a rifle that way, your eye will automatically center it and it's yet another reference point for you to align when shooting.  As an archer you know that it is a game of doing everything the same way every time and hitting your anchor/reference points.
 
Lots of good advice Renegadehunter.
Sounds like you have a nice aiming setup with your compound. Got pics?
 
A lot of RTH set-ups will definitely get you shooting. Most have inexpensive accessories. I am not a fan of capture rests like the "biscuits" and "triple toothbrush". Also, some have a string knock but not a "D" Loop. I would get a drop away rest and put a D-Loop on whatever bow. The peep sights vary widely. The three strand circle is usually not real adjustable. I like the two strand that is served in place and angled to present a perfect view at full draw. Like was previously stated the peep should match the sight ring. Another consideration is the brace height. In order to attract newer shooters to the RTH bows they advertise decent speeds. This is often accomplished with a low brace height, sometimes 6" or less. That makes the bow somewhat less forgiving and a little more difficult for a new compound shooter to master. There are some really good bare bows that can be accessorized for close to the same price as a RTH. The Martin REV comes to mind with a price under $500, it also comes as a RTH for not much more. Obsession has a series of less expensive bows that are also in that price range. A year or two (or a few) old bow will be discounted greatly and can usually be purchased for a fraction of a new bow.  With accessories, an older bow may be a much better rig that a new RTH. Make sure the DL and DW adjustability meet your requirements. Then look at the components and see if they meet your needs. Best of luck!
 
Thanks for all the informative answers.  Basically, I hunted with my recurve from age of 15 to 23.  After that I took a long break and started again in 2012. However, Ive only been out a few times with bow and the deer Ive seen are past my comfort range for a shot.  My recuve is the Browning Cobra 1 51lbs pull. It is the same bow Ive had all my life and I was just shooting it this past Sunday.  Problem is I'm older and just had carpal tunnel surgery last December.  So, I figure that a compound might help me out in several ways. I currently hunt in CA :(  I first started in PA and CT. Again, thank for all the info.
 
Marty said:
Lots of good advice Renegadehunter.
Sounds like you have a nice aiming setup with your compound. Got pics?
I sure don't.  Not sure how I could get a pic of the sight through the peep with the bow drawn.  Otherwise it is just a picture of a sight lol.
I run an HHA single pin adjustable most of the year and then switch to a Cobra fixed pin for hunting, the bow currently has the single pin on it.  It's getting close to needing to put the fixed pin on it for September elk.
 
Sparkitoff said:
A lot of RTH set-ups will definitely get you shooting. Most have inexpensive accessories. I am not a fan of capture rests like the "biscuits" and "triple toothbrush". Also, some have a string knock but not a "D" Loop. I would get a drop away rest and put a D-Loop on whatever bow. The peep sights vary widely. The three strand circle is usually not real adjustable. I like the two strand that is served in place and angled to present a perfect view at full draw. Like was previously stated the peep should match the sight ring. Another consideration is the brace height. In order to attract newer shooters to the RTH bows they advertise decent speeds. This is often accomplished with a low brace height, sometimes 6" or less. That makes the bow somewhat less forgiving and a little more difficult for a new compound shooter to master. There are some really good bare bows that can be accessorized for close to the same price as a RTH. The Martin REV comes to mind with a price under $500, it also comes as a RTH for not much more. Obsession has a series of less expensive bows that are also in that price range. A year or two (or a few) old bow will be discounted greatly and can usually be purchased for a fraction of a new bow.  With accessories, an older bow may be a much better rig that a new RTH. Make sure the DL and DW adjustability meet your requirements. Then look at the components and see if they meet your needs. Best of luck!

Good point about the brace height, it never occurred to me that a "RTH" bow would be offered with a brace height of less than 7".
 
Another couple thoughts.
Make sure the sight has a level on it.  You would be absolutely amazed how far off of level you will hold a bow when on a sidehill or other uneven terrain.  It will feel like it's level to you, but then you look at the level and realize how off it really is. 
Also watch some youtube videos or read up on proper compound bow form before starting so you don't develop bad habits that will hurt your accuracy and be tough to break.
 
Renegadehunter said:
Another couple thoughts.
Make sure the sight has a level on it.  You would be absolutely amazed how far off of level you will hold a bow when on a sidehill or other uneven terrain.  It will feel like it's level to you, but then you look at the level and realize how off it really is. 
Also watch some youtube videos or read up on proper compound bow form before starting so you don't develop bad habits that will hurt your accuracy and be tough to break.
Thanks for the tips. Anyone on youtube you recommend to watch?
 
Renegadehunter said:
Marty said:
Lots of good advice Renegadehunter.
Sounds like you have a nice aiming setup with your compound. Got pics?
I sure don't.  Not sure how I could get a pic of the sight through the peep with the bow drawn.  Otherwise it is just a picture of a sight lol.
I run an HHA single pin adjustable most of the year and then switch to a Cobra fixed pin for hunting, the bow currently has the single pin on it.  It's getting close to needing to put the fixed pin on it for September elk.
:lol: I wasn't looking for the impossible,  only a pic of your setup...peep and sight.
I only use one pin on my compound set at 20 yards. What do you mean by a "fixed" pin :?:
 
chrisamx said:
Renegadehunter said:
Another couple thoughts.
Make sure the sight has a level on it.  You would be absolutely amazed how far off of level you will hold a bow when on a sidehill or other uneven terrain.  It will feel like it's level to you, but then you look at the level and realize how off it really is. 
Also watch some youtube videos or read up on proper compound bow form before starting so you don't develop bad habits that will hurt your accuracy and be tough to break.
Thanks for the tips. Anyone on youtube you recommend to watch?

"World Archery" has some decent form videos.  Just search "Compound bow form" and plenty will come up.
 
Marty said:
Renegadehunter said:
Marty said:
Lots of good advice Renegadehunter.
Sounds like you have a nice aiming setup with your compound. Got pics?
I sure don't.  Not sure how I could get a pic of the sight through the peep with the bow drawn.  Otherwise it is just a picture of a sight lol.
I run an HHA single pin adjustable most of the year and then switch to a Cobra fixed pin for hunting, the bow currently has the single pin on it.  It's getting close to needing to put the fixed pin on it for September elk.
:lol: I wasn't looking for the impossible,  only a pic of your setup...peep and sight.
I only use one pin on my compound set at 20 yards. What do you mean by a "fixed" pin :?:

The sight you're describing would be "fixed pin" it sounds like.  You sight the pin in and it can't be moved.

My HHA "single pin" is a moveable sight that only has one pin.  The whole sight frame adjusts up & down and it has a a pointer and a yardage tape on it.  I sight it in and make marks on the sight tape so that when shooting I can adjust it to the exact yardage the target is, such as 35 yards.  I like it because it allows me to hold my pin directly on target without having to hold  it high or low, or gap pins such as putting the target between 30 & 40 yard pins on a "fixed" sight.

A fixed sight is a sight that normally has 3 to 5 or even 7 pins.  Mine is a 7 pin (bought it with that many pins for 3d shooting, before I got my single pin sight). I sight my top pin at 20, next pin 30, etc., so that with 7 pins I have a pin for 20-30-40-50-60-70-80 yards.  I really only need about 4 pins for hunting, but again I bought this sight for both hunting and 3d shoots, the 3d shoots can have bonus targets out to 80+ yards sometimes.  I like a fixed pin because with elk hunting and trying to call them in, a lot of times they come in and may wander around a bit before a shot opportunity occurs.  If they are at 20 yards and then spook, a lot of the time you can give them a cow call on a mouth reed and stop them, but now they might be at 40 yards.  I can simply choose whichever pin I need for the yardage.  The only downfall to me about a fixed pin sight is when a target is at, for example, 25 yards and you have to "gap" your 20 & 30 yard pins to hit where you want.  Not a real big deal but it is nice to be able to hold a pin right where you want the arrow to go.
 
img_0912.jpg

img_0913.jpg



Here's the pics you requested Marty.  Hopefully they show up, I haven't tried to post pics on this site.  The first one is my HHA single pin moveable sight currently mounted on the bow.  Notice on the right side of it there is a knob, pointer, and white strip with marks on it.  The knob is just a set screw, so you loosen it and move the pointer to one of the marks on the white strip for a different yardage and then tighten it down again.  The bottom mark is 20 yards, which it is currently set on, and then the marks go up in 10 yard increments until it maxes out at the top.  The newer moveable sights just have a dial you rotate instead of this pendulum style.  You can also see the peep in the string.
The second one is my 7 pin "fixed" sight I use for hunting.
 
Personally, i'd keep on hunting with the recurve and work hard at getting closer to the game.

However, I have no love for inlines or compounds.
 
Pics are worth 1,000 words.  Thanks for taking the time to post them Renegadehunter  !
Wow :shock: ...I've been out of touch with the technology on "moveable" sight pins such as the HHA single pin.  I really like the concept since I use only one fixed pin on my compound.  I like simplicity...so I might have to check into one of those single moveable pins.  I've missed more than one deer because in the heat of the moment I selected the wrong distance pin using multiples as shown in your second pic.
 
My BIL just did that at the last archery shoot we went to.  It was a caribou target at 42 yards and he accidently used his 50 yard pin.  Shot right over it.
A lot of people are using singe pin adjustable sights for hunting, especially folks that sit in a blind or tree.  Most will set them at about 27 yards (seems to be the best "average" distance) and then just hold a bit high or low as needed when an animal comes in.  I can see that working fine for ambush style hunting.  With the way I elk hunt I just prefer being able to choose a different pin "on the fly".  I've had bulls come in and then stare at me from 20 yards...you know they're going to bugger out in a minute...so you wait and once they wheel to go you draw and simultaneously cow call on the mouth reed.  Many times they'll stop when you do that, sometimes turning and giving you a broadside or quartering away shot, and they may now be at 40+ yards.  I like being able to just use another pin rather than trying to hold one pin that high for a good shot.  Its all about hunting style and what works best for you.  I absolutely love the clean sight picture of a single pin, but that busy fixed pin is just a better setup for me when elk hunting.
 
I've always been an ambush hunter and plan for 20-25 yarders...so one pin works well for my style.   Multiple pins are probably the way to go for distances beyond that.
 
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