When I clean a traditional rifle it is almost always done in steps so I will list it that way...
Traditional rifles
1. Insure that the rifle you are about to clean is UNLOADED!! I can not stress the importance of this. I had an incident where a friend claimed he could not get his rifle clean. When I checked it, it was loaded. So if you did not hear that rifle go off and know 100% that the rifle is unloaded, check it. Put the ramrod in the barrel. The ramrod will all but disappear in an unloaded rifle.
2. Cock the hammer to the half cock position. Now knock the wedge pin(s) out of the stock to release the barrel. And remove the barrel from the rifle. This is a good time to wipe all the fowling off the outside of the barrel with Windex or some other kind of cleaner, and a cloth in the nipple/bolster breech area of the barrel. It is not necessary to remove the nipple from the rifle just yet.
3. Have your water source ready. I use a plastic coffee can as they do not rust. I fill that ? of the way to the top with VERY HOT (to even boiling if necessary and you can wear gloves to do this) water and then give it a squirt of your favorite dish soap, or cleaning product that will be water soluble. Now immerse the breech end of the rifle barrel under that water level so the nipple is covered. Dip a cloth patch of appropriate size into the water to saturate it. And with a tight fitting cleaning jag, work that wet patch down the bore of the rifle in short strokes. Working to the bottom or breech of the barrel. Bring the patch back up and out of the barrel
4. Let the water run out the nipple of the barrel, and if you can, or want to, remove the bolster clean out screw do so. You have actually cleaned the fowling now out of the nipple since you left it in for the first of the water patches.
5. Repeat this step #3 with a second and third patch. NO MATTER HOW CLEAN THEY LOOK. You should also note that with the removal of the nipple and in some cases the bolster clean out screw, an increased of volume water is moving out the openings and you pump those other patches through. This is cleaning out the bolster for you.
6. Now pull the barrel and make sure all the water has drained out of the barrel as possible. I now like to dip a fussy pipe cleaner in solvent and push that into and past the nipple port threads as deep as I can get it to go into the breech. Then work that back and fourth to insure that there is no fowling in that area of the rifle. If the bolster clean out screw is out, so the same thing with the pipe cleaner in that area. You should be able to force that pipe cleaner all the way into the breech. Simply check the depth you have moved that pipe cleaner into the breech and then hold that against the outside of the barrel. It might surprise you how deep you have moved into that area.
7. With a strong solvent patch, I now like to swab the bore of the rifle. Pay special attention to the breech area. Turn the tight fitting patch in a clockwise direction a few times, being careful not to unscrew the jag head. Some rifles have a cone shaped breech design. It may be necessary to put a breech/cone scraper attachment on the ramrod and reach in there and physically scrape that cone clean. Often times this can be done with a 30 caliber cleaning brush on your favorite rifle ramrod. All you want to do is clean that cone. Normally it is clean.
8. Another strong solvent swab is now worked down the barrel. Pay attention to any signs of fowling on that swab. If there is any, then another patch with solvent is put down. If the patch comes out clean (as normally they do) put some isopropyl alcohol on a patch and swab the bore.
9. If you have access to a air compressor, I like to blow forced air through the nipple port and bolster clean out screw area.
10. Now start to dry patch the bore of the rifle. Do not stop until you can check that patch and note there is no moisture on it. Also the patch should show no signs of fowling.
11. Swab the bore of your rifle now with a patch saturated with your favorite gun oil. You want a good coat on that. Set the barrel off to the side, to cool. As it cools it will draw the oils into the pores of the metal.
12. Now is when I clean the lock. Check the nose of the hammer for old caps. Remove any stuck cap pieces from the nose of the hammer. Fill that with solvent and let it sit a few seconds. Now with Q-tips wipe its nose. Keep cleaning until the nose of the thing is clean.
13. Solvent a patch and slide that behind the hammer and clean all the lock area you can get to. Pay special attention to the inside of the bolster where the nipple goes back to. Make sure that is nice and clean.
14. Wipe out the stock of the rifle.
15. Wipe down the outside of the rifle with the oil patch you used to swab the bore. Pay special attention to the bottom of the barrel. People often forget this area only to find rust at a later time.
16. Replace the nipple and bolster clean out screw. Wipe your finger prints off the barrel and replace it in your stock. Now while gripping only the stock put the rifle away. Your rifle is clean.
