Pedersoli flintlock first checks

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

markthenewf

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
21
Reaction score
4
Finally got a chance to take my new Pedersoli Harpers Ferry 58 cal flintlock out  to the range to test out.  The gun itself is pretty for sure, though I did get an aftermarket brass ramrod.  I'm not fussy about that wood stuff as I have a habit of breaking firearm stuff with uncommon consistency.

07131910.jpg


I wasn't sure as to what would work best, so I brought both 2F and 3F for the main charge and 4F for the pan.  0.01" lubed patches for everything.   Tried 35 and 40 grains starting off as that was  in the lower end of recommended charges.  It was not an overly productive trip, considering the amount of time I had fiddling with the flint & frizzen.  Seems that, or appears that, it is super picky on having it all perfectly clean and dry.  This is not the case with my flintlock rifle, which only requires a quick dry patch wipe of the flint & frizzen for perhaps 4 or 5 shots.  Add to that, it's what I would classify as being "damned difficult" to be consistent with a single front blade sight.

07141910.jpg


So, here's the fugly target of my 15-yard exploits of the day.  There are 3 sight-in shots (1 high and two low) where I was trying to figure out where the heck it was popping off to.  It also seems as though it prefers a pristine barrel because I would wet-patch+brush+wet-patch+dry patch clean after each set of 3 shots just to keep things as consistent as I could.  Those first shots were always at roughly the correct elevation.  I didn't have a chrono with me today, but the 3F @35gr and 2F @40gr 'felt' the best.

07141911.jpg


I obviously need more practice, but I also need to get another flint.  The one it came with seems to be a bit of a turd.  I've tried knapping it and resetting it in the clamp, but it just wans't doing well.  Also, a decent slab of it fell off when I pulled it out of the clamp, so perhaps it's already fractured and not yet fallen apart.  Either way, my trip probably took three times as long as it should have because of it.

Anyways, it's been cleaned up and put back on my Texas wall until next time!

07061910.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing your range outing with that .58 hand cannon.  Don't see many of those.  Sharp looking piece :ttups:
 
Pretty cool.

I'm with you on the ramrod. I'm not putting up with any more wood piercing my hand. I use an aluminum rod anodized to blend in. Brass is too heavy in a rifle.
 
.
When one looks at your results, they are pretty confusing. 

You need to shoot a 5 shot group of one load per target to tell what your doing; one for 3FFF at the same distance, 5 shots. Same for every different change (loads) 5 shots groups. 

Then you'll have an idea of what your weapon likes and know what is needed to get a good group.
 
Buck Conner said:
.
When one looks at your results, they are pretty confusing. 

You need to shoot a 5 shot group of one load per target to tell what your doing; one for 3FFF at the same distance, 5 shots. Same for every different change (loads) 5 shots groups. 

Then you'll have an idea of what your weapon likes and know what is needed to get a good group.
It's not really that confusing for me since I know what the patterns are and have marked them.  In reality, the results are so poor moreso because of my lack of practice with it.  I'm mostly a centerfire pistol (45ACP) and rifle (308) shooter, hence my crappy patterns!  I can hold and fire off one-handed all fine and good, but that single blade sight.....eeeesh!  I don't shoot revolvers, so that long and heavy trigger will take some getting used to as well.

I like to start off with 3 shot groups in order to assure that I'm not chasing a dead end.  3 shots is generally enough to get a 'course' measure of what is good and what is not so good.  From there I do anywhere from 5 to 10 based on how fine a stat I'm looking for.  I like to shoot 10 with centerfire rifle and a full mag of centerfire pistol (usually 8 for 45ACP).  I agree with your process on putting up separate targets.  I really need to get more practice in AND I NEED to do these tests off of a shooting rest of some type because I'm currently sucking off-hand with it.  Eventually I'd like to go through 2F, 3F, and 0.01" and 0.015" patches.  Possibly even look at Swiss vs GoEx.

As a centerfire reloader, I am used to going through component and geometry options, but this black powder stuff is something a little different (ball dia, patch thk, charge/brand/density, etc.).  Then again, it's not often do I say "Yup....taking the 50-cal to the range today". ;)

On an aside, what sort of groupings can I generally expect to get?  I normally do around 2" groups with 45ACP at 15 yards, so would it be practical to expect around 4" with this sort of pistol, or does it open up more?
 
I would expect to see similar groups out of your pistol as your 45acp with practice (3" - 4" groups). These heavier pistols seem a little hardier to hold for really tight groups. At Friendship you'll see 2" groups for these type guns but these guys have proparly wore out several of them getting to that point.

Practice - Practice - Practice​
 
According to Dixie Gun Works Catalog, the recommended load is 35 grains of FFg with a .015 patch & .570 RB.  Other features include:  Button rifling @ .008” deep, 1-48 twist with 7 lands & grooves; 1/2 “ to 5/8” flint.   I usually select the size that equals the widest part of the frizzen.  A friend of mine told me, “The bigger the rock, the better the spark!  Figuring out the right flint is confusing sometimes.  Some like them longer or shorter, bevel up or down.  Certain types last longer than others.  You’re just going to have to fiddle with it until you find one that works.




I also shoot a .62 cal. Trade Gun with only a front sight.  I’m amazed at how accurate it is!  Of course, it’s held to my shoulder with a better sight picture.




Like you, I usually do three shot volleys when “sighting in”.  However, it seems with flinters, five works better.  I start with a bench rest then move to an Isosceles Pistol (two hand hold) stance for off-hand.  Once I have her dialed in, then I can try it single handed.
For some reason, my pistols seem to like 3F better than 2.  Maybe it’s the shorter barrel.
 
Have one of those in the caplock 54 caliber. I havent shot it yet. Im waiting to get as old as Buck so I have more time to do it.
 
Any updates on your Harpers Ferry? What a beautiful pistol and one I’m very interested in. It just looks fun!
 
That's a very attractive pistol and I like it. The wall display is excellent.
 
I've had my eye on the Pedersoli Harpers Ferry for years, don't know why I haven't yet taken the plunge. You mention 'perfectly clean and dry- has humidity had an effect on your flintlock shoot generally ?


Finally got a chance to take my new Pedersoli Harpers Ferry 58 cal flintlock out to the range to test out. The gun itself is pretty for sure, though I did get an aftermarket brass ramrod. I'm not fussy about that wood stuff as I have a habit of breaking firearm stuff with uncommon consistency.

07131910.jpg


I wasn't sure as to what would work best, so I brought both 2F and 3F for the main charge and 4F for the pan. 0.01" lubed patches for everything. Tried 35 and 40 grains starting off as that was in the lower end of recommended charges. It was not an overly productive trip, considering the amount of time I had fiddling with the flint & frizzen. Seems that, or appears that, it is super picky on having it all perfectly clean and dry. This is not the case with my flintlock rifle, which only requires a quick dry patch wipe of the flint & frizzen for perhaps 4 or 5 shots. Add to that, it's what I would classify as being "damned difficult" to be consistent with a single front blade sight.

07141910.jpg


So, here's the fugly target of my 15-yard exploits of the day. There are 3 sight-in shots (1 high and two low) where I was trying to figure out where the heck it was popping off to. It also seems as though it prefers a pristine barrel because I would wet-patch+brush+wet-patch+dry patch clean after each set of 3 shots just to keep things as consistent as I could. Those first shots were always at roughly the correct elevation. I didn't have a chrono with me today, but the 3F @35gr and 2F @40gr 'felt' the best.

07141911.jpg


I obviously need more practice, but I also need to get another flint. The one it came with seems to be a bit of a turd. I've tried knapping it and resetting it in the clamp, but it just wans't doing well. Also, a decent slab of it fell off when I pulled it out of the clamp, so perhaps it's already fractured and not yet fallen apart. Either way, my trip probably took three times as long as it should have because of it.

Anyways, it's been cleaned up and put back on my Texas wall until next time!

07061910.jpg
 
I sandwich my "rock" with both a lead washer and rawhide. As firm in all my flintlocks as a flint can possibly be, to me the important thing is to see the angle/edge of the flint is level across, and strikes evenly someplace about 2/3, or a tad more (depending on the lock/frizzen angle) up the frizzen. Just me, your mileage may vary.....
 
Would greatly appreciate seeing a close up picture if one were available.


I sandwich my "rock" with both a lead washer and rawhide. As firm in all my flintlocks as a flint can possibly be, to me the important thing is to see the angle/edge of the flint is level across, and strikes evenly someplace about 2/3, or a tad more (depending on the lock/frizzen angle) up the frizzen. Just me, your mileage may vary.....
 
Sorry, best I can do, couldn't get the mark(s) on frizzen to show. Mind you this is the way I do it, there will be many opinions, but this works best for me on several of my flint guns.
Photo on 8-8-20 at 12.16 PM.jpg
 
I see no problem with three shot groups. However, I'll add a few tips I've learned from others. One thing is that 3F burns better in pistol length barrels and usually gives better accuracy. My pistol is a .50 and 30 grains of 3F is the normal load and 40 to 45 grns is for serious work. I patch with .016" mattress ticking and shoot for groups from a rest. Of course mine has a rear sight which helps; but with practice you will find it shoots better and better.
 
Thank you! Why do you use both lead and leather ?
for me it depends on the jaw surface and possibly the angle. The rawhide (and I mean rawhide not tanned leather) grips the angles of a rough cut flint better and the lead holds it down firmer with out wiggle. On a smooth or "cut" flint I would, and have, used either. I wet the rawhide, affix/ tighten, let dry and keep it tight as needed. You can change the flint angle some also by varying the thickness of both the lead and rawhide front or back. Hell, try it either or both ways and see what works best for you. We all have opinions as you will see..........PS keeping the front edge of the flint square/aligned flat across the frizzen will help keep the flint from trying to twist if one edge or the other hits first, and extends life of your flint. Sure hope I've made some sense here......
 
for me it depends on the jaw surface and possibly the angle. The rawhide (and I mean rawhide not tanned leather) grips the angles of a rough cut flint better and the lead holds it down firmer with out wiggle. On a smooth or "cut" flint I would, and have, used either. I wet the rawhide, affix/ tighten, let dry and keep it tight as needed. You can change the flint angle some also by varying the thickness of both the lead and rawhide front or back. Hell, try it either or both ways and see what works best for you. We all have opinions as you will see..........PS keeping the front edge of the flint square/aligned flat across the frizzen will help keep the flint from trying to twist if one edge or the other hits first, and extends life of your flint. Sure hope I've made some sense here......
Note the sharp points on this French 1777 jaws, when I got it, it had a flint that was tightened up enough it broke through the leather washer and cracked the flint, I'm replacing it now with thicker lead washer and rawhide sandwich.....
Photo on 8-8-20 at 4.10 PM #2.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top