One more Mountain Rifle Kit done!

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

exMember

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
15,449
Reaction score
581
100_1911.jpg

100_1910.jpg


See the shine on the ramrod? The ramrod and stock both were carefully polished with 2000 grit sand paper. The ramrod only has linseed oil applied to it. The stock is Genuine Oil Finish.
100_1916.jpg

100_1913.jpg

100_1912.jpg

100_1915.jpg

100_1914.jpg
 
Some more pictures with fillers to help cut the bright outside light down. Also rubbed some linseed oil onto the wood to show the grain better.
100_1920.jpg

100_1926.jpg

100_1918.jpg

100_1927.jpg

100_1917.jpg

100_1928.jpg

100_1921.jpg

100_1925.jpg

100_1919.jpg

100_1929.jpg

100_1922.jpg

100_1924.jpg

100_1923.jpg
 
Jonathan, Doc White has taken thousands of pictures of his rifles. He takes them just before dark, no shadows, natural light isn't as bright and he uses a light blue blanket for a background. 

:Questuon:   [I like little Mike, he always has the same answer.] Thanks you, you little bloke ....
 
Wow FG...that color and finish on the stock is awesome  :!:
Does that genuine oil finish require periodic applications of linseed oil :?:
 
Is it true that water (rain for example) can mess up a linseed oil finish? I've heard this several times in the past. This is one reason I hesitate to use boiled linseed oil on hunting guns.

Very nice rifle, by the way. The only thing I find awkward looking on these guns is that the lock always looks lost in those enormous lock panels.
 
Hanshi, Most likely those that have trouble, are the guys that slop it on and then its good to go. Linseed oil takes a long time to dry if its put on thick. When I do a stock finish with an oil line lineed oil, it takes 2-3 weeks minimum. You can speed up the process by using a humid box ( without the humidity ) and turn the light bulb on to get it up around 100-110* for 2 -3 days or however long it takes for the tackiness to go away.

genuine oil like the stuff i used on the rifle above, it normally gets 2 days dry time between each coat.
 
That's true Jonathan, we have had military rifles from the F&I War to World War II that came from the factory with linseed oil finishes and had gone throught hell during there time in service with no issues.

Some of these guys will make statements that are not correct - they should have thought about what they were saying before just talking to hear themselves. Writers for some of these magazines - sporting editors are the worst.
 
Last edited:
Hanshi, Most likely those that have trouble, are the guys that slop it on and then its good to go. Linseed oil takes a long time to dry if its put on thick. When I do a stock finish with an oil line lineed oil, it takes 2-3 weeks minimum. You can speed up the process by using a humid box ( without the humidity ) and turn the light bulb on to get it up around 100-110* for 2 -3 days or however long it takes for the tackiness to go away.

genuine oil like the stuff i used on the rifle above, it normally gets 2 days dry time between each coat.



Thanks for the info, Jonathan. I have a can of boiled linseed oil but have always been hesitant to use it due to caveats concerning rain.
 
I have got started putting linseed on my M1 a CMP special comes with a new Walnut stock .So far about 5 coats of linseed applied every 3-5 days apart and it so far is still soaking it up just starting to look like its starting to cover. I figure another dozen or so coats and it should look like I want it too. I just finished a old Riverside Arms .410 SXS thats about 90 years old It came out ok .Riverside 410 4 (1280x720).jpgM1 stock 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have used Lin-Speed (Lin-Speed Oil Finish) with good success. I used it to refinish an H&A Underhammer in 1969 and it was still good when I sold it in 2004.

From the Brownells' site:

"Available Again, The Famous "Real" Kettle-Boiled Linseed Oil

Pure linseed oil, specially refined to dry in just 2 to 3 hours to a tough, hard, easy-to-touch-up finish. So simple to use, you can even leave sanding dust to help fill pores. Apply stain (if desired) and follow with finger-dunks of Lin-Speed. Smooth out with the heel of your hand and set aside to dry. First coat will "freeze" sanding whiskers for easy removal, ending time consuming steaming and de-whiskering. Stop working so hard at your stock finishing! Sand it well, then APPLY Lin-Speed and LET DRY!"

On the other hand, I was just reading another site where folks said it took days or more for Lin-Speed to dry, depending on humidity.

Boiled linseed oil IS supposed to be a good water barrier finish.

~WH~
 
Last edited:
Tried and True also has a pure version of BLO: Here are two notes we exchanged earlier this week on the topic. I have used their Original Wood Finish before. Might make a good patch lube being beeswax and oil.

Me:
>I am a woodworker and reenactor. I recall you folks, at least for a while, were selling boiled linseed oil made without dryers, which would be similar or perhaps identical to the way it was made a couple hundred years ago. I came to the website to price this, but did not see it offered. Is this product still available for small orders?

Reply:
>Our Danish Oil would be what you are looking for, it is a 100% pure polymerized linseed oil (PLO). We decided not to call it boiled for a couple of reasons.
>The first being that we do not boil so much as cook in a vacuum, this more modern process is able to produce a more consistant end-product than the traditional kettle "boil" and also eliminates the hazards of heating an oil up to the flash point. The second reason is that nearly every BLO on the market is actually raw oil with metallic drying aids and other chemistries that we do not wish to associate with our products.
>You can use the Danish Oil in any application that would traditionally use linseed oil. I actually season my cast-iron pans with it and I know other people have used it on wrought iron pieces.
>Our two other main finishes - The Original Wood Finish or our Varnish Oil - are also PLO-based and only made with ingredients that would have been available in a pre-industrial world but made with modern quality control and production methods. The Original is PLO and beeswax (works well on leather too) while the Varnish is PLO and pine resin.
>We do not sell anything direct to end consumers anymore, but retail purchases can be made at Woodcraft, Lee Valley, Rockler, Amazon as well as various wood-working/home-improvement stores around North America.
>Please do not hesitate to ask me any further questions!
>
>Happy woodworking,
>
>Josh Hudac
>Tried & True
>www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com
 
Back
Top