My "Robin Hood"...

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Marty1

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Golfers have their lucky "Hole-In-One", while archers have their own version... the "Robin Hood". Here's my 1st and only Robin Hood with an aluminum arrow. Extreme high odds of this happening ever again in that the aluminum arrow had a full-taper nock swage!
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Ahh, the robin hood. Always invokes mixed emotions: Proud that you managed to shoot two arrows to the exact same POI, yet upset that you just destroyed an arrow!
I've done it twice, once at 20 yards and once at 30 yards. Both of them were years ago. I never shoot at the same POA at 20 & 30 yards, at 20 you tend to at least break nocks on your other arrows and a possible robin hood, and 30 yards still results in a few broken nocks on occasion.

I shot 3d shoots with a guy years ago (Dustin) that was just a fantastic shot, good at judging yardage too. We were doing a shoot one time and our other friend (Donnie) shot first. It was an elk target at 31 yards, pretty close for how far they normally put them. Well, Donnie just center punched the "10", dead center. Donnie and I talked smack to Dustin every chance we got since there was no way we were ever going to beat his overall 3d score. Donnie stepped back from the target, looked at Dustin and said, "No way you'll beat me on this one, my arrow is dead center!". Dustin calmly walked to the stake, adjusted his single pin sight, and drew. I remember this was before d-loops and he shot without a peep aligner tube, so he would always reach up and turn his peep a bit with his mouth after he drew. He settled into his form and then suddenly says, "Your nock is sure glowing brightly in the sun". Before Donnie and I could process that statement, Dustin released his arrow and perfectly robin hooded Donnie's arrow. To this day I find it incredible that he called, and then delivered, a robin hood at an unknown distance 3d shoot.
 
What is your favorite Toelke bow?
My favorite is the Whip followed by the Chinook and then the Pika. I used to live 20 mins from Dan and have shot most all his bows. I was there and gave him my assessment of his prototypes of the static recurve he and Jared designed. Dan and his son Jared run a full time (and then some) bow building business. A custom bow is ordered, made and shipped in 5 weeks or LESS (almost always less). You really should find one to shoot and see what the fuss is about over them. Dan has lifetime shooting lessons and advice to all his customers. Good advice I might add.
 
When I first see a traditional bow I always look at what kind of string is on it. I'm guessing you're using Fastflight on those bows. A friend of mine has a BLACK WIDOW bow which came with a Fastflight string but it was noisy. He changed-out the string for Dacron which is slower speed-wise... but quieter for hunting. I know some guys use an "continuous-loop" jig to make their own strings. I make my own bow strings using a Flemish Twist jig.
Curious... what string material you use?
 
I like an endless loop B50 on the Chinook just because it is slightly quieter on this recurve. The r/d bows I prefer D97 or B452. Endless loop seem to perform best on the LB's as well. Loops should be padded as well as the serving at the mocking point. I have and endless loop jig but used a endless jig I made when I was back in college during the Mesozoic Era long before "fastflight" was around.
 
Good shooting. I hate it when I make cane arrows, with osage or some other wood inserts for the nocks and then hit one with another arrow and bust it.
I don't shoot at same arrow/spot either but sometimes arrows just have a mind of their own and home in on the nocks or rip feathers off after spending a lot of time splicing solid and barred feathers together for some Purdy arrows. 😳

Side note. I started doing this on my Bamboo backed osage bows I build and then continued using it on all Selfbows I make, and my glass bows.
When making my flemish strings, 99% of the time 14 strands, I use fastflight. When starting the twist for each loop on the ends, I cut 7 stands of B50, 8" long, and lay them along the fast flight at the end where I start the twisting. I blend the B50 into the fast flight while making my loops. It is a little more work and the fingers have to work a little harder to do the twisting. I learned this from a bowyer that used Fastflight on ever bow he made. The 7 strands of B-50 help cushion the loop on the bamboo or glass and create less noise. It also keeps the fastflight from cutting into the back of the bow at the tips, especially if you don't use tip overlays.
Mike
 
Good shooting. I hate it when I make cane arrows, with osage or some other wood inserts for the nocks and then hit one with another arrow and bust it.
I don't shoot at same arrow/spot either but sometimes arrows just have a mind of their own and home in on the nocks or rip feathers off after spending a lot of time splicing solid and barred feathers together for some Purdy arrows. 😳

Side note. I started doing this on my Bamboo backed osage bows I build and then continued using it on all Selfbows I make, and my glass bows.
When making my flemish strings, 99% of the time 14 strands, I use fastflight. When starting the twist for each loop on the ends, I cut 7 stands of B50, 8" long, and lay them along the fast flight at the end where I start the twisting. I blend the B50 into the fast flight while making my loops. It is a little more work and the fingers have to work a little harder to do the twisting. I learned this from a bowyer that used Fastflight on ever bow he made. The 7 strands of B-50 help cushion the loop on the bamboo or glass and create less noise. It also keeps the fastflight from cutting into the back of the bow at the tips, especially if you don't use tip overlays.
Mike
Now that's REALLY interesting with blending the loop material.
Here's a pic of my simple but effective Flemish Twist Jig a friend made for me.
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I've blended the loop material and also padded D97 with D97. I can't say there was much difference. My usual string build is a 9 strand three bundle Flemish with D97 for any bow under 50#, which is all of mine these days. I pad the loops to best match the nock groove on my bow. For my newest bow, a Bodnick Slick Stick, I only had to add three strands. I like to stagger the length of the extra strands to give a nice taper to the loop into the body of the string. About the only thing I use B50 for anymore is padding or tied on nock points. Every bow I've had was louder and shockier with Dacron, probably due to the added strands necessary with B50. I also got tired of the constant stretching. Dacron works. D97 works better in my experience at least.

Nice looking string board, there Marty!
 
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