I just obtained a new scope and am attempting to mount and bore sight it. I did a search and could not find an answer so please help if possible. This is going on my Pro Hunter and is a fixed scope. Again I am only mounting the scope in the rings and trying to bore sight w/out the bore sighter. A while ago I read something about bore sighting thru a barrel?????? All help is This is one of those do it yourself severely limited budget things. All help is appreciated and thanks.
Mounting and bore sighting a new scope.
- Thread starter Bucker
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It's pretty simple rally. take out the breech plug and lay the rifle on sand bags pointing towards a target that stands out very well. look through the barrel and center the target in the bore. then, without moving the rifle, look through the scope at the same target. If the crosshairs off center just turn the turrets in the opposite direction that you want to move them. Repeat this process until both bore and scope point to the same target.
good luck, mcrik
good luck, mcrik
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Do what mcrik said and you will be on paper at 25 yards for sure maybe even 50. Thats how I do it.
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First, with the rings loose enough to allow the scope to move and the rifle sitting as level as possible (not canted left or right vertically), Move the scope forward or back in the rings to set up you eye relief. Then rotate the scope and line up the vertical crosshair so that it lines up with the center of the barrel. Carefully tighten the ring screws in an alternating pattern so as not to move the scope. Then Boresight as they explained above.
ShawnT
ShawnT
Mount the scope base and lower half of the rings (if the Redfield type, then install the top half of the rings on an alignment tool or bar to align the rings, then remove them.) Place the scope in the rings and adjust eye relief to the maximum comfortable distance then mark it with tape for reference. position the top of the rings and srews, but do not tighten them.
You can place your rifle in a rifle vise or cradle. most folks don't have these, so just use sand bags or bags of shot or a good substitute that will hold the rifle in shooting position without touching it.
Then place a square target in front of the rifle on a target backer that has good color contrast about 25 yards away. use a level to get the target edges absolutely square.
while the rifle sits in the rest, move it to get it square using a level or plumb and a scale or ruler.
Now look through the scope and rotate it so the elevation crosshairs follow the same plane as the top of the target. snug the screws and visually recheck the alignment and the tape marking your eye relief.
Repeat this process until your satisfied with the reticle alignment.
(If rings are Weaver type, tightening the screws in the rings will rotate the scope body as torque is applied. you have to allow for this movement before you begin the tighten the screws. only experience can tell you how much to allow.)
mcrik
You can place your rifle in a rifle vise or cradle. most folks don't have these, so just use sand bags or bags of shot or a good substitute that will hold the rifle in shooting position without touching it.
Then place a square target in front of the rifle on a target backer that has good color contrast about 25 yards away. use a level to get the target edges absolutely square.
while the rifle sits in the rest, move it to get it square using a level or plumb and a scale or ruler.
Now look through the scope and rotate it so the elevation crosshairs follow the same plane as the top of the target. snug the screws and visually recheck the alignment and the tape marking your eye relief.
Repeat this process until your satisfied with the reticle alignment.
(If rings are Weaver type, tightening the screws in the rings will rotate the scope body as torque is applied. you have to allow for this movement before you begin the tighten the screws. only experience can tell you how much to allow.)
mcrik
