I use the Moose Milk to clean all of my Blackpowder firearms. I also use it shooting competition matches. I cut my patch material in 2" wide by 36" long out of the .018 denim I get in several yards. I roll them up and put 4 or 5 rolls together with rubber band and I can fit about 15 of these rolls in one compartment of my shooting range box. I also carry a few rolls in my shooting bag. At the match I will take one roll, lay it out unrolled on the shooting bench and saturate with the Moose Milk for enough to shoot 5 or 10 rounds whichever target I'm shooting. I start the ball and then cut and ram it home to the powder and fire the round. This works as lube and helps keep the barrel clean so I only have to clean after each 5 shots between hanging another target.
When I clean up for the day, I use many 2x2 military cleaning patches soaked in the Moose Milk until they come out clean then I run one dry patch down while there is a small amount of the cleaner still in the barrel and then I use " Break Free Lube" CLP that was designed for the military. It is a Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative. Never had a muzzleloader rust in the 45 years, right after it hit the market. I also put on my stocks. I use it on all of my firearms, modern and primitive. I get the 4 oz bottles for my shooting box and a 1 oz bottle for my shooting bag and some 16oz spray bottles for my work bench and around the house. On my recipe for what I was told was "Moose Milk" by some guys at the Phoenix Winter Shoot is:
In a gallon jug,
1 Cup of Water Soluble Cutting Oil- (like you would use in lathes or bandsaw lube)
1 Cup of ammonia
2 Cup of 409 House Hold Cleaner
Fill remainder of gallon jug with water.
Shake each time you use. I make a gallon and then put some in a couple of 8 oz. plastic bottles my wife gets her Contact Solution in.
I have one in my shooting. bag and one in my shooting box.
When I first heard of "moose milk" I was told to use one part water soluble cutting oil to nine parts water. Water soluble cutting oil has gotten pretty difficult to find, and Balistol is now substituted for it.
I have a question for those who say "My patch line cleans as I shoot so I never have to wipe between shots..."
I have tried many different described systems and potions; what I have found is:
The Charge is loaded Behind the Patch and Ball, when fired the powder waste burns up the barrel Behind the patch.
The next ball loaded pushes the West back down the barrel and packs it into the next charge. Shoot and that charge wast adds to the previous and so forth, untill after a few shots the wast combined with the next charge begins reaching the touch hole....and, well, soon you cover the touch hole and due to the vacuum can no longer even ram the patch and ball down.
What am I missing in these 'Never Wipe Between Shots' systems?
FYI: Riffled Barrel, any BP, tight patch & ball
Impossible to push foiling down to the touch hole. Once the powder charge is in, it can only go down so far. What really happens and can cause accuracy issues is, the more you shoot without swabbing, the space in the bore where the powder sits, slowly shrinks down smaller and smaller due to the fouling building up. That's when you'll start experiencing fliers and inconsistent accuracy, simply due to the change in pressure due to the smaller bore down where the powder sits.
Using an alcohol or water based lube, makes reloading very very easy without ever having to swab. Why? Because we are basically pushing a very tight fitting ( I use tight fitting patches) cloth patch down the barrel that's dampened in the solution that we used to clean or swab the barrel out with at the end of the day. It literally, wipes the fouling away each time you load and embeds it into the shooting patch and go the barrel it goes when you touch the rifle off.