Knight Original DISC Cleaning

[ct12555]

Thanks to some much needed advice, you have me lined out on bullets, sabots, powder volume, etc. Now I need to know more about the specifics of cleaning my Knight Original DISC. Again, I will be using only GOEX blackpowder.

With my Shiloh BPCR, I simply use a mixtue of water and Windex (no ammonia) to clean the barrel. I also remove the breech block and clean/oil.

Now for my quesiton. After shooting, how far do I need to break my Knight down to clean it? Does the bolt need to be stripped each time? Does the stock and trigger group need to be removed?

Thank you in advance for any responses.

 

[Anonymous]

If you shoot 15 shots and more Iwould suggest to put the bolt apart and clean it.
For the barrel , windex and water will do .
Taureau noir

 

[Mark whiz]

The water and windex should work fine. I typically use a 50/50 mix of water and Simple Green or water/Murphy's oil Soap - but that's just personal preference, you're good with the windex.

As far as the bolt goes, Taureau noir gave good advice. My USAK has a very simple bolt and doesn't involve any breakdown to speak of I usually just let it soak in some of my cleaning solution while I'm cleaning the bore, then wipe it off and oil it. You might try the soaking thing and then wipe and hit it with something like spray Breakfree to oil it and get any moisture out if it.

As far as breaking it down any further - I might do that once a year to make sure nothing bad is happening down there, but it's probably all you need to worry about doing too.

 

[cayuga]

I have an original Knight Disc, orange primers, C-tool break down..

After I C tool it, I take the bolt out and apart by removing the back part of safety/firing pin/spring, from the bolt housing. I wipe all the fouling off these parts and then LIGHTLY oil it and put it back together.

Pull the breech plug and clean that. I then like to take Windex or 409 on some patches and clean the major fouling out of the barrel. I then use Birchwood Casey #77 and scrub the bore down. If I suspect any lead, plastic, or what ever in the bore, I throw a brush on, dip it in solvent and scrub the bore. Then a few more patches of cleaner. Windex and Simple Green work great. Then dry patch the bore. If the patches are clean, and normally they are, I oil the bore.

Check the trigger from time to time. Pull the trigger and spray it clean wiht brake or carb cleaner, then oil it back up.

You got a good rifle there. They are real shooters.

 

[ct12555]

Many thanks to you all. I hope to have everything I need to start shooting, in the next couple of days. I only need to get a c-tool, once Knight starts taking orders again.

 

[rjhans53]

I gave the c tools I had away with various guns I've sold over the years. I finally made one out of an old cheap 3/8 box end wrench, and before that I used a 1/2 lock nut (the nut that comes with 1/2" elect fittings) and it also works but you need to be careful so it doesn't slip out. More than one way to skin a cat.

 

[ct12555]

Thanks, rjhans! I thought there might be another way to do this. Now, as soon as I grasp the concept of exacly how the c-tool works, I may try to rig something up. Did you cut out part of the box end to make it work?

 

[rjhans53]

I opened up the open end of the wrench with a stone on a dremel (I use the closed end to hang it with). I also had to trim the ends of the "C" a bit to get it to work it probably took 15 minutes with a dremel. If you look at the bolt where the 2nd safety screws in you will see a round part on the bolt that sticks back to the but end of the gun, this does NOT go all the way around but has a pie shape that sticks out as much as the raised circle, the C tool sits against the bolt with circle and pie sitting into the C tool and you screw the safety down until the bolt unscrews. It's the best I can do to describe it but if you don't understand what I'm talking about I'll do my best to reword it

 

[cayuga]

Not all original Disc rifles used a C tool. Make sure yours is one that does.

 

[Busta]

Thanks, rjhans! I thought there might be another way to do this. Now, as soon as I grasp the concept of exacly how the c-tool works, I may try to rig something up. Did you cut out part of the box end to make it work?

ct12555,

I never owned one of the original DISC rifles, but I think they used the "C-Tool" from 1997 to a point that it was changed to the "C-Tooless" bolt like cayuga said, possibly 1999? The Disc Extremes came out in 2002. I do own a SUPER .45 barrel that came from the original DISC platform, but I use a DISC Extreme bolt in it.

Here is Knights page for all the manuals since the early 90's, they are on PDF.

http://www.knightrifles.com/instructionmanual/default

Here is the 1997 Original DISC manual. Page 17 for "C-Tool" bolt disassembly diagram.

http://images.ebsco.com/pob/knightrifle ... te_web.pdf

1999 manual.

http://images.ebsco.com/pob/knightrifle ... te_web.pdf

2002 manual.

http://images.ebsco.com/pob/knightrifle ... te_web.pdf

The rest are in the first link above.

 

[Underclocked]

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/productdet ... ?id=323976

 

[ct12555]

Thanks again, to all! Very helpful informaton. I'm planning to shoot this smoke-wagon this weekend.