Lee 9 said:I would say the thickness is most critical. I have trimmed the length with finger nail clippers on the range to see what a particular bullet liked. You do have to get it even if you do that.
Now this is an opinion based on my experiences, I believe that the shape of the nose of the bullet is what causes a different type of air flow there for a Sharp nose bullet slides the air right under the petals of a sabot and a big hollow point has a rougher air flow so it needs longer petals.
Getting the thickness right is basic to getting decent groups getting the length right is needful for one hole groups on a consistent bases.
GM54-120 said:One of my favorite bullets doesn't do well with one of my favorite sabots because its too long or the bullet is too short.....depending on how you look at it.
I take an electric drill and put the jag in it and run it at slow speed then go to the small fine grind wheel for sharpening my tools and take the corner off so it can not catch the sabot when loading. It is my belief that I got rid of quite a few fliers that way. The way a sabot comes off a bullet is critical to accuracy, it must come off strait with out any tipping or side pressure.tpcollins said:GM54-120 said:One of my favorite bullets doesn't do well with one of my favorite sabots because its too long or the bullet is too short.....depending on how you look at it.
I would think you could turn down the end of the loading jag on a lathe that would: - contact only the bullet's nose, clear the ends of the sabot petals, and still have some upper diameter left to stay centered in the bore.
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