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Renegadehunter

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Oct 12, 2018
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285
I would use "real" BP in a flintlock. I will also say though that I tend to be a "real" BP snob and won't even consider using a sub such as Pyrodex. Subs are a bit harder to ignite and a flinter will definitely prefer real black I'd think.

There's Goex, regular or Olde Eynsford, Schuetzen, Swiss, or Graf & Son's brand. Swiss and Olde Eynsford are more expensive and advertised as "premium" powders. Regular Goex and Schuetzen are nearly identical in performance as far as I can tell. Graf & Sons is just Goex that has been rebranded. I normally use Goex or Schuetzen in my .54.
Sometimes you can find BP locally, depending on your location. Stores that have it can't have it out on display, so you have to ask them for it to see if they have it "in the back". I've read that many times a regular employee doesn't even know if they have it and a supervisor has to be asked.
If it can't be found within decent driving distance, then you can order it online from Graf & Son's or a couple other places, Powder Inc. is another one. I personally prefer Grafs. Ordering online has extra fees, a hazmat shipping fee and a "handling" fee. There is usually a 4 or 5 lbs minimum order size as well. The more you're willing to order the better the cost per pound works out to. Many folks get together with a couple other BP shooters and order in bulk so they can minimize the fees and cost/pound.
I don't have a .58 or a flintlock. For a .58 most will say to use 2f for the main charge and 4f in the pan, but its possible to just use 3f for both. With 3f you'd want to cut the main charge down by about 15% vs 2f. For example, if you used 100 grains of 2f then 85 grains of 3f would be comparable.
 

Sasquatch

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Aug 1, 2019
Messages
10
Thanks for all the great feedback. I don't have anyone around me that shoots Flint, they have all switched over to percussion or electronic. So I will have to buy smaller batches. I will go with 2F & 4F, one size fits all never fits me. How much should I start with take into consideration I need to sight in the rifle and hopefully take a few deer. Do any of you carry a possible bag while hunting and what do you carry in it.
 

Renegadehunter

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Oct 12, 2018
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285
Percussion guys may still want to split an order of real BP with you, worth asking. You can mix granulation types as long as the minimum is met and the max isn't exceeded, so everyone can get exactly what they want.

With a .58 I'd start at about 80 grains of 2f. I do not own a .58 and haven't shot one, but I don't think you'd want to start much lower than 80, I recommend to start at 70 with a .54 based off my own experience so I think 80 should be in the ball park. Don't worry about fine tuning the sight quite yet, just make sure it's hitting paper. Shoot a group, go up 5 grains to 85, shoot another group, go up another 5 grains, etc., etc., until you find the best group. You'll find a point where groups shrink and then start to open back up. Of course don't exceed max volume charge. Then use the amount that gave you the smallest groups to dial in the sights where you want them. The optimum powder amount for accuracy can/may differ between a patched round ball and a conical, so each would have to be checked separately if you plan on possibly using both. I'd start at 25 to make sure on paper and then move to at least 50 yards. The difference in how a load will shoot at 25 vs. 50 really separates the good from the bad.

I carry a shooting/possibles bag when hunting all the time. A common theme with people just getting into BP shooting is they think they need a fairly large bag, buy one, and then wish they had a bit smaller bag once they get some experience. Just FYI. I think a 6" to 7" bag is best, but everyone is different. I very much prefer a stiffer bag that holds it's shape well vs. a soft pliable one. I like minimal when hunting. I load the rifle and then carry in my bag a small homemade field flask that holds 5 reloads of powder, 5 lubed patches in an old cap tin, 5 round balls in a ball bag, a jag, a nipple wrench, a decapper tool that has a nipple pick built in, and a container of damp cleaning patches. I wear a straight capping tool and a homemade antler powder measure around my neck.
You're going to want a priming flask and touch hole pick with a flinter too, probably an extra flint, and perhaps a "cow's knee" for putting over the lock in foul weather. Many just tuck it under their arm in foul weather. FG or one of the other flinter shooters will know better than I do, I have solely used a percussion.
I also always bring my main bag with me, it is a decent sized bag that has most of what I own related to BP shooting, so I have things like a ball puller, etc. at least at the pickup.
 

tbvaughan53@gmail.com

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Sep 30, 2018
Messages
158
Location
Buffalo NY
Anyone use NULL B for priming the pan? I have been told it holds up better in humidity especially in hunting season. Even on the range it was working when the 4f was not firing in heavy humidity. All anecdotal, was just wondering experience in other physical locations and weather. I am in Western NY.
 

newtire

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Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
104
Hello everyone having a 58 cal. flint built. I'm starting to gather supplies what are some of my choices for power
With a flintlock, about the only thing that works like you'd want is real black. Some people use 2f even in the pan and swear by it. I have tried it and it seems to work fine. Have tried putting 10 gr. of black as a primer for Black MZ with real black in the pan but that only resulted in a hangfire kind of ignition. I'd say, go with 2f for pan & main charge if you can't find anything smaller. I've used reduced 3f charges for main charges in larger bores but that's just me. I've also used 2f in a .32. Watch Mike Bellevue on YouTube and see what he uses. He's probably shot more than most of us.
 

Grimord

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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
166
Location
SE CT
I hunt with a flint .58. It has a 1:66" twist with deep square cut rifling, and it likes a stiff powder charge to get the best accuracy. I use 120 grains of 2f for my hunting load. A faster twist will probably not like such a stiff load as the ball my trip over the lands if it is a shallow grooved barrel. I use 3f or 4f for priming. the null B mentioned does not like humidity or ambient moisture and will soup up in the pan. I cannot tell the difference in 3f or 4f in the pan when shooting. I use whatever I have handy.
I do not carry a Possibles bag when I hunt. Never had to take more than 2 shots at a deer. I have a couple of speed tubes with powder charges with a block with 2 patched balls and a starter. (see Pic). I carry my primer flash around my neck, inside my jacket, and a flint wallet in my day pack with extra flint, leather, touch hole pick & brush, and a cows knee for inclement weather. The pictures show a leather sleeve around my loading tool that has percussion caps for when I use my .58 percussion gun.
 

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Sasquatch

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Joined
Aug 1, 2019
Messages
10
Thanks for the info I never take more than a mag of ammo with me unless I'm at camp and it's in my day pack. My reload skill will not be where it need to be at first so I better make the first count. Grimrod did you build the block or is this something I can find for sale.
 

Grimord

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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
166
Location
SE CT
The block is something I put together to fit in my pocket for deer hunting. It is a all in one unit that I can easily move from one jacket or pants pocket to another.
 

big john

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2018
Messages
21
All good info from those above. I've never used any of the subtitutes and have only shot black powder.

The only flintlock that I used in hunting was a .62cal fusil smooth bore. I used 90gr. Goex 3F and primed with 3F. Everything I needed was hanging around my neck or in my front pocket.
I had a small loading block with 3 patched balls and a short starter on a leather thong. I cheated and used a .300 WinMag case taped up for a quick reload.
Rip off the tape, dump the power, short start thru the block, ram home and prime with a small charger and you're ready for a follow up shot.
I killed two deer, a old doe and a button buck with two shots in less than two minutes from a tree stand. I showed them modern rifle guys how it was done! My brother-in-law said I was drunk celebrating for two days! lolol
 

White Fox

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Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
51
'Squatch, I notice you say your rifle will not be finished until late winter, or springtime. That is good. The best advice I was given by a master builder was along the lines of "When you feel like really leaning on the chisel and moving some wood, set it down and take the dog for a walk." When you get in a hurry you make mistakes. His other advice was to sand until it looks good, then look at it again with light coming in from a shallow angle- you'll find areas that need to be smoother.
 

Sasquatch

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2019
Messages
10
Although I won't be harvesting an venison this season with my flint I look forward to next. I built a flint for my brother 35yrs ago it had 2 barrels a 50 & 54 it took 9 months. Although I enjoyed the project I realized that I would not be a builder of fine rifles. He still has the flint but has moved on the percussion and electronics. I am have a flint built just for me as the call name might imply I'm larger than most and I just want it to be right.
 

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