Difficulty with browning my barrel

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Mossie

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My first BP build, a under hammer using Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown..Followed instructions and the first coat looks like a paisley '60s Tshirt! Any help? THanx
 

Billy-by-gosh

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Sounds as if your degreaser failed to completely do its job on the barrel surface. You will just have to start again. Lots of commercial preps available to de-grease, as well as the old-time methods of boiling in water with baking soda. No matter which method you take, make CERTAIN you protect the bore first!
 

mark1945

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Out of all the Browning solutions I have tried over the years only one really stands out and to me is the greatest. Laurel Mountain is the only one that I will use , most even tone of everything I have tried.
 

Mossie

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Thank you all for your suggestions! I'm going to steel wool and degrease and try again as I really don't want to toss this bottle of browning solution. Need to learn on the bbl before moving on to the action. I brazed the thimble and used cold blue around it to see where I still had brass to remove and the metal accepted it fine. heated on the top of my shop wood stove until to hot to handle with bare hands, then applied solution. My wife looked at it and asked "Is that something you're throwing away?" How's that for sympathy and understanding? Out Here
 

Mossie

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Well day three and the barrel looks better this go round. Steel wooled the surface and cleaned with mineral spirits and got hotter this time. Still not even coloring (streaking) So on to the next round..Out
 

msauce1

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Iv'e had to do extra coats to get a uniform color on a couple of barrels . If you keep cleaning and reappling it will be a dark brown almost black when oiled.
 

30coupe

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Well day three and the barrel looks better this go round. Steel wooled the surface and cleaned with mineral spirits and got hotter this time. Still not even coloring (streaking) So on to the next round..Out
One question: are you degreasing your steel wool before carding the barrel? Steel wool is oiled to keep it from rusting in the package. You will need to use a degreaser on it or it can leave streaks.
 

Winter Hawk

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I've never used the Birchwood Casey solution, but I've always had good results with Laurel Mountain Forge, carding with denim rags from old jeans. It takes about a week, carding and reapplying the solution, then leaving it in a fairly humid place. The last time I did this I made a "tent" of a poly tarp and put a pan of boiling water in it with the barrel, which worked out very well.

~WH~
 

tbvaughan53@gmail.com

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Well, I built my TC Hawkin in 1984, and chose the older browning color. At the time the chemical sold in the gun shop was Bichloride of Mercury. Degressed,heated with propane torch, and applied. Repeated and a perfect color and consistent result. THEN later I discovered how dangerous it is. Tried the Plum Brown on a small cup for the nipple and was not nearly as nice and was irregular. Took a few rounds and was ok, not as nice as the barrel I did when young and unknowing, but it still looks great.
 

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Mossie

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That's the even consistency I'm looking for. Barrel's getting lighter..Emery cloth and went back to square one. The flats look good but I'm still getting bright "bronze" patches in some places one the round portion where it was turned and tapered in a lathe. Just the first coat this go round. I expect better overall quality in my work..May be too much to ask LOL
 

Winter Hawk

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That barrel is GREAT! Now we need to see the whole rifle....

Mossie, consistency comes with repeated coating and carding. I don't know about the B-C stuff, but LMF instructions say that rubbing hard while applying the solution "will cause a metallic copper film to form, which will impede the browning process."


Hope this helps.

~WH~
 

Mossie

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That barrel is GREAT! Now we need to see the whole rifle....

Mossie, consistency comes with repeated coating and carding. I don't know about the B-C stuff, but LMF instructions say that rubbing hard while applying the solution "will cause a metallic copper film to form, which will impede the browning process."


Hope this helps.

~WH~
I have it hanging by the thimble and application with a soft bristle brush..Perseverance will win out!
 

Mossie

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What a outstanding piece! on my third coat this go, getting better, Looks good when wet but after it dries I can see the blemishes. If I oiled it, it would be satisfactory. Is this where I draw the line? Out Here
 

tbvaughan53@gmail.com

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I am curious on that plum brown as I have traditions kit with a barrel in white and want to brown it. I may hunt down some bichloride of mercury and repeat the process I did on my original.
 

tbvaughan53@gmail.com

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Those pictures are to identify it.is lost or stolen. That kit was hand rubbed with true oil after shaping, sanding, whispering. Been hunting with it and range shooting. Has primitive sights so not competition accurate but shoots deer. I have two other factory TC Hawkins being I am restoring like my kit one percussion one flint with green mountain barrels and Lyman sights for target shooting. Let us see how your browning evens out.
 

Winter Hawk

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Try five or six coats, don't get too aggressive with the carding, then oil the heck out of it and let it sit to soak the oil up for at least 24 hours.

Then we need to see photos! :)

~WH~
 

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