T/ C Omega- optimal load

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RL

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Hello- New to this board, so I apologize if this has been posted before.

I have a T/C Omega with Nikon Omega Scope. I've been thinking about going to a 150 gr. load to see if the graduated marks on the reticle are accurate, but everyone I talk to says I won't get good accuracy with that much powder. Haven't had time to try myself yet, any thoughts?

So far, I've been shooting 115 gr. of Triple Se7en (not sure why I picked 115 gr., but I've stuck with it). I started shooting 245 gr. Powerbelts, but got an occasional flyer (which caused me to miss a chip shot at a 160" class buck), so I switched to 250 gr. Shockwave sabots. The SW's shoot great out to 150+ yds, but I shot a buck this year and they did not expand at all and left too small entrance and exit hole. I've been hearing good things about Barnes Expanders and may buy a box.

Anyone else shooting the T/C Omega have any thoughs on optimal bullet/load combos? Most of my hunting shots are close, but its nice knowing that I can 'reach out and touch someone' if needed.......

Thanks in advance
 
RL

First off I would like to wecome you to the forum and send you a great big HOWDY from IN. you are about to talk to some of the best guys you will ever do so with we will do every thing to help you with your Questions.

The Barnes EXPANDERS and the Spitfire TMZ are awsome bullets with 95gr of 777 powder I shoot the 250gr and 290gr TMZ with great ACCU. .75 to 1.25" shot groups at 100yds.

You may also want to try the 200gr shockwave with the blue sabot if you really want to shoot 100 to 135gr of powder. Remember to reduce your charge by 15% if you are shooting loose 777 becouse it is 15% hotter than PYRODEX or BP.

Ron G.
 
RL said:
Anyone else shooting the T/C Omega have any thoughs on optimal bullet/load combos?

Well, I don't know if it is the optimal load or not, but it sure works well in my Omega. I mostly shoot 110 grs. of Triple Se7en ffg and a 200 gr. T/C Shockwave. It's very accurate, flat shooting and holds together well from the bullets I've recovered. Just somethin' you might want to give a try! :wink:
 
My Omega shoots great with...

I just got the Omega used this year and I am shooting 100 gr T7 3F (81 gr weighed) with the 25 ACP ignition system and either 250 SW or 250 Spitfires. Both shoot same POI and < 1" at 100 yds, about 1.5" at 200 yds. Zeroed at 100 I'm 11 inches low at 200 yds with the Barnes, didn't shoot any SW at that distance on paper but broke 2 clay pigeons using Kentucky windage so they're close. I haven't messed around with other loads because the recommended load is sooo freaking good!!! I want to see what she'll do with lighter bullets when weather permits. I did kill a smallish doe Saturday at long range and the Barnes went through around 16 inches of deer including low shoulder with an exit hole about quarter size so no issues with that. I took a few shots with some left-over T7 pellets (2 - 50gr) and they didn't do too well but that could be the ignition system or age of the pellets. I posted some target pictures if you search on my name. My Omega loads reasonably easy with Spifires and yellow sabots on a swabbed barrel but they stick in the crud ring a few mm. off the powder when dirty as I learned this weekend. Have fun
 
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like I'm in the ballpark on my powder (I don't know anyone who is using 150gr.). I may play around with different bullets over the next year. I mostly hunt in thick cover in OH and IN, so I don't get too many long shots, but its nice knowing I can make 'em.

One last question- can someone direct me to a good cleaning procedure considering that I'm using the Trip Se7en? I've been taking the barrel off and swabbing with soapy water, then rinsing with clean, but I'm thinking that my long distance zero on the scope may be improved by leaving the barrel on. What's the best barrel cleaning agent?

Thanks for your time- I'm a died in the wool bowhunter new to this smokepole stuff..........
 
If you have the synthetic stock on the Omega get a torque screwdriver and set the screws the same each time. Check for rub marks on the barrel and relieve the stock where it touches. Check the front screw boss on the rifle as mine is loose and the screw holding it on is tight. Not sure how to fix that one yet. Mine started drifting POI last year and I think it is the culprit. I also plan to bed the stock later. I would not use the soap and water cleaning with Tripple Seven. Personally I use an alcohol based cleaner and after it is clean I coat the bore with Ballistol. Arizona is dry and I have a dessicant in the gun safe and so far have not seen any hint of rust. I do not shoot T7 as it makes too much of a crud ring in my Omega.
 
There is alot more to this ML stuff than I thought. I've been reading other posts and see various comments about bedding and adding washers. I have no idea what the implications of that are, but I take it that direct barrel contact with the stock is bad?

I've been thinking that taking the barrel off each time could affet my POI at long range, so I've recently put some reference marks to make sure the screws are torqued the same each time. I plan to figure out a good cleaning procedure that will not require barrel removal. I'll look into alcohol based cleaners. Others have told me that you don't want to lube the barrel when done cleaning b/c it will affect accuracy- I've been told clean and dry is best?
 
RL said:
There is alot more to this ML stuff than I thought. I've been reading other posts and see various comments about bedding and adding washers. I have no idea what the implications of that are, but I take it that direct barrel contact with the stock is bad?

I've been thinking that taking the barrel off each time could affet my POI at long range, so I've recently put some reference marks to make sure the screws are torqued the same each time. I plan to figure out a good cleaning procedure that will not require barrel removal. I'll look into alcohol based cleaners. Others have told me that you don't want to lube the barrel when done cleaning b/c it will affect accuracy- I've been told clean and dry is best?

If you don't put some kind of oil with a rust preventative, it will rust. Just dry swab it several times to get the oil out before shooting it.
 
i shoot 100 grains t7 ffg loose behind a barnes tmz .290 1.5" groups at 100 yards. before that i shot 2 pyrodex pellets behind a .250 shockwave and that was accurate as well. i have determind that my omega is just a good shooting gun!!!
 
I shoot 120 grs of fffg 777 behind a Barnes 290 gr TMZ. Probably more powder than needed but I have had excellent success on deer with this load ( kicks like a mule for practicing but you don't notice it when shooting at deer ).
It does help some to free float the barrel. You should be able to slide a business card down both sides of barrel and if you can't just take barrel out of stock and wrap sand paper around a socket or other round objet that is a little smaller than the barrel channel, and sand the tight spots on the stock ( before you take the barrel out, mark the tight spots on the stock, sand these areas until you get the desired clearance ).
You don't necessarly need to take the barrel out to clean it. I remove the breech plug and clean with a 50/50 mixture of alcohol and windshield washer solvent ( the same thing I use between shots ). I use dry patches until they come out dry and then I use a patch heavly saturated with Butche's Bore solvent ( any good solvent will work ). Let it set a few minutes then clean it out. Next I use a light coat of Break Free CLP. Shine a light down the barrel and it and it should look like a mirror. This sounds like alot of work but it really doesn't take very long.
Thouroughly clean your breech plug ( I let mine soak in mineral spirits while I do the barrel cleaning ). Scrub it with a tooth brush an push a drill or other cleaner through the ignition hole ( don't take any metal out ). I then grease the plug threads with Slick 50 One greese ( this is by far the best greese to keep a breech plug from freezing up, that I have found, and it is cheap at Wall Mart or auto parts stores. Just barely snug the breech plug, it doesn't need to be really tight.
I didn't intend to be so long winded but I hope some of it helps. I picked up nearly all of this info from posts on this and other muzzle loading sites.
 
If I still had a .50cal Omega I'd probably use either a 250gr/200gr Shockwave over 110-120gr ffg Triple Se7en. It always shot great for me..
 
I'm shooting 245gr Spitfire in front of 2-50gr T7 pellets, sub MOA groups.
90gr FF T7 loose put em in thar purty close.
Got comparable accuracy with SW.
 
I'm shooting the 245 grain spitfire out of my Omega also, on top of 100 grains 777 3f. I bought a bunch of the ezload blue sabots from Knight and find them more accurate than the yellow sabots (FWIW). I also have a thumbhole camo synthetic stock, and it didn't shoot too well until I floated it - used a 2 liter pop bottle and cut out some squares to fit just right. With two pop bottle shims under each block, it put three bullets into one ragged hole at 80 yards, and dropped about 3" at 145 yards. Now it's an awesome gun.
Oh, I also Ultra Bore coated it so I'm not worried about clean up and/or corrosion.
Marty
 
I have the SS/laminate version and floated the barrel as well, but no shims just a little light sanding did the trick.
 

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