Not ML related, but need help with rust issues

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Aladinbama

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I've posted this elsewhere, but no help was offered so I thought I would try here. Afterall, some older muzzleloaders have rust issues as well.
I have a 1895 Chilean Mauser that has moderate pitting below the woodline. Here's what it looked like before;
370553271.jpg

I've scrubbed it really well with a brass brush and WD-40 - it actually cleaned up pretty well. Afterwards I sprayed it with both CLP and Birchwood Casey's Barricade and just let it set. I figured that I would spray it again and wipe it down really well while closely inspecting for rust residue.
Am I missing anything or is there anything that you would recommend I do to hopefully end this issue?
The stock is another issue altogether, but I've got a good grasp on it.
Thanks, Tom
 
I have a remington 725 that was caught in shipping during huricane andrew. We did not get it for several months and there was a lot of pitting and rust on the outside of the barrel (bore was still great, and it is a shooter). I cleaned it up and tried to reblue, but the pitting was too deep for a decent finish. I decided to paint it and found a wet sandable primer in the spraypaint at Walmart. I bought matte grey and degreased and sprayed it down with a number of light coats. It came out very matte and I thought it looked great. Couldn't even see the pitting. It would get a shiney mark if you hit it against something, so I decided to hit it with some 0000 steel wool and repaint. Much to my surprise, with light applications of the steel wool it polished up and looked a lot like a blued gun. It can still get a mark if I hit it against metal (treestand), but a quick spray and a few seconds with the steel wool and it looks new again. Thought about having it duracoated, but this seems to work just fine for a lot less money. A guy I know also uses the rubberized undercoating you can buy from walmart. Says it is great, although you may have to open up the barrel channel a little bit after using it.
 
A couple things I have done in the past . . .

Birchwood Casey has a product that is used when cold bluing - Rust and Bluing remover. This stuff works rather well by itself for more minor cases of rusting. Followed up with 0000 steel wool, reblue and it comes out pretty nice.

Something I tried recently was a rust converter product. Not sure how it actually works, but it takes rust and converts it to a paintable surface. The project I was given to work on had a very badly pitted and rusted barrel (old 20 gauge single shot that had been discovered in an old barn). Tried every trick I could think of with less than desirable results. I saw this converter stuff in a farm supply store and thought it might work. After completely degreasing the barrel, I sprayed this stuff on and let it set overnight. WOW! No visable rust and most of the pitting was gone. One light coat of engine black spray and it was ready to go.
 
I have a Model 99 Japanese Arisaka 7.7mm like that. Being a left over from WWII it was purchased cheap but in poor shape. The outside was pitted, the inside perfect. A very ugly but accurate rifle. It is still in the same condition minus any rust. Its my go into nasty places rifle and is a heck of a deer killer in its day.

If your determined to have the perfect outside, it will not happen. BUT that painting idea sounds pretty good. I might just do that myself to the 7.7 for the heck of it...
 
If you go the painting route, a complete degrease and then heating of the metal seems to give a more durable finish. I have been told a followup heating with a heat gun bakes it on good. If I was going to do it again I would use the brownells aluma hyde II. It is epoxy based and a nicer and more durable finish than what I used, but a little more expensive. I can retouch mine for years with a couple of $3 cans, if it is even needed.
 
rust

dustyr, what was the mname of the product for rust you iused? I got a rusted Wolf to clean up and that sounds good product to me. Also how did you go about degreasing the barrel?
 
There is another option it is called POR 15 comes in black and silver, does not have to be topcoated with anything but it will lose its gloss over time. It can be applied directly over rust and will stop it. I use it inside panels of cars when I repalce parts (quarter panels, rocker panels, cab corners etc.) after cutting of a damaged part I coat the inner panels where rust is present to stop the rust from creeping out over time. They make a whole line of products from pre cleaners to finishes. Look them up it may be an option. A little of the stuff goes a loooong way!
Doug
 

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