The 09 DISC @ the Farm

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sabotloader

Keep Shooting Muzzleloaders - They are a Blast
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Headed to the farm this morning to see if my modification to the primer well of the Breech Plug reduced the blow back in the breech area.

I had installed two #2 Stainless steel washer in the primer well and ontop of the existing primer bench. Several people are using 'O' rings to accomplish the same thing. I am hoping by using the stainless washers I will have a more-or-less permanent application.

Here is a picture showing the first attempt...

NFPJModification-label.jpg


The trip to the farm this morning - proved that a primer well depth of 0.200 is still to deep for the primers to bottom out. The beginning depth is 0.236.

The rifle shot very well with the primer well modification and the Lehigh vent liner in the other end. Just took 6 shots - that was enough to tell be that I had not accomplished my goal. It was some what cleaner but not good enough.

2-18-10KDE09TarLabel.jpg


Brought the rifle back to the shop and re-worked the inserts. I now have 2 press fit washers installed in the well. One number #3 and one #2. With this installation the primer well depth was reduced to 0.185. I now can feel the bolt camming action pushing the primer against the primer bench.

I then fired some primers in the shop and I think I have reached the point I was looking for. Hopefully, I will be able to get out tomorrow and shoot the gun again.

NFPJPic-Chart2.jpg
 
I thought the new Lehigh plug was suppose to solve all these issues? Are you doing these modifications to that plug or an original Knight plug?
Doug
 
I believe this will work for you once you get the right size shim. The problem is if you switch primers you will need a new shim.
 
i can barely get those brown MMP's down the barrel of my .45 elite. broke a knight aluminum ramrod fooling with them one day! ive pretty much exclusively switched to the blue crush-rib harvesters

that being said, the rifle shoots great with either of them. mine seems to really like 100 g. t7 with a 200 g. .40 cal bullet.
 
Once you get it setup the way you like it, those big .406 260s will really test out how much it can handle. :wink: :D

I can use the Harvester Smooths in my Accura 45 but they are too tight in the MMP tan until they are resized. The 220s i sent though are fine in either. :p
 
jsteurrys

I do not think so Jim... the key is to find the right shim thickness for the middle length primer...

Cheddite 0.287
Rem 209-4 0.290
Rem STS 0.295
CCI-209M 0.296
Fed 209 0.297
CCI-209M 0.297
Fed 209A 0.297
W209 0.299
Win T7 0.300

I used the Fed 209 as the pattern, it closes snug but not tight on the regular Fed-209, and when I use the T7 it closes a little tight but easily crushes the nose into the seat.

The Ceddite is a little loose but still comes out of the primer well fairly clean.

The 'O' ring would certainly make life easier but it is not as permanent.

I had to settle on the #2 washer (.020 thickness) and the #3 (.030 thickness) because that is what I had... but, If I were to make a single shim I would go just a bit tighter.

The other advantage of the 'o' ring is you could move the plug from gun to gun and still have it work. The is no guarantee that this combination is going to work in my other DISC gun - have not got that far yet...

One other thing the spacers can be removed if necessary... not as easily as a 'o ring but they will come out.
 
n8dawg6

I have not tried those Dark Brown 40 cal sabots yet. I have some but have not had time to get to them... I was using the light tan MMP's and smooth blue Harvesters...
 
GM54-120

Once you get it setup the way you like it, those big .406 260s will really test out how much it can handle.

260's should not be a problem... I have shot some Bull Shop Conicals from the 09 DISC.... they are 460 grain hunks of lead - they are awesome... But they are to long for the 1/30 twist - but they were still fun to shoot.

bullshopBullets.jpg
 
You can flat lap a .030" washer down using a flat surface, a piece of emery paper, and a figure eight motion to achieve the exact thickness you are looking for. I am interested in seeing the gun to gun test using the same breechplug. Using two different NFPJ breechplugs and two different rifles of mine, one uses (2) 5-193 "o"-rings and the other uses only one. I have since made a .032" shim to go under the "o"-ring so only one "o"-ring is required now. I had to do the same thing with the Lehigh breechplug except that one uses a .026" shim under the "o"-ring.
 
I know what you meen.

I have a couple of these for my dad's 45-110 compared to the 45 Minnie and 54 Maxi. Duke offered to re- size them down but we were both fairly sure it would take roughly a 1-20 (minimum) for them to stabilize.

P1010340-1.jpg


Those Meister 260s are about the same weight as a normal 45cal conical but in a tight fitting sabot, they should really build some pressure.
 
jsteurrys

Jim what are your shims made of? Are they washers that you have lapped down? What grit paper would you suggest?

I am headed to the farm mid-morning to try the BP in the 09 DISC and see how that works. Then I will pull the BP and put it one of the other DISC's and see how far off I might be. I am thinking I might even have to mate a bolt to the a given BP. All of this would be OK for me because the only time I will use a NFPJ is for range shooting.

Off the top of my head I am thinking that the Lehigh BP's will be more uniform than the run of the mill Knight BP. So I guess I am hoping the GM barreled action will be consistent and the Lehigh BP will be consistent, with the differences being in the machining of the bolt.

BUT: all of this experimenting on my part has got to come to a stop for awhile - i really need to break out the PRB gun and do some shooting... First PRB shoot is March 7...
 
GM54-120

Hopefully they will work well in a CR.... Today when I get back from the farm - I will run some thru the 45 just before cleaning it to make sure that it will load.

What powder load have you been shooting with those bullets?
 
sabotloader said:
GM54-120

Hopefully they will work well in a CR.... Today when I get back from the farm - I will run some thru the 45 just before cleaning it to make sure that it will load.

What powder load have you been shooting with those bullets?

Meister .406 260gr--100gr BH209, CCI209M and Harvester Smooth blue. After the first shot they loaded about perfect IMO and sabots looked perfect.

Not too tight in my Accura 45 but IMO a Crushrib might be better. I have some on the way from Harvester. The .401 220gr Redline hardcast used the same powder and primer. Both MMP tan and Harvester Smooth worked fine on the 220.

Thank you very much, i have no idea of the fps. I only know they are great for medium too long range plinking.

I hate to ask more but if its possible to try one of the Meister 260s into some media, that would be awesome. I use wet phone books and a full milk jug in front.

BTW i got some T7 3FG now too. With the new BP and stemmed liner it might get me off of the BH209. :lol:

Thank you very much

Scott
 
GM54-120


Meister .406 260gr--100gr BH209, CCI209M and Harvester Smooth blue. After the first shot they loaded about perfect IMO and sabots looked perfect.

Not too tight in my Accura 45 but IMO a Crushrib might be better. I have some on the way from Harvester. The .401 220gr Redline hardcast used the same powder and primer. Both MMP tan and Harvester Smooth worked fine on the 220.

Thanks for the information - that gives me a starting point...

Thank you very much, i have no idea of the fps. I only know they are great for medium too long range plinking.

I will get the velocity later this month + I will get a recovered bullet. I do not have time today to set up the chrono or I would get some velocities today.

BTW i got some T7 3FG now too. With the new BP and stemmed liner it might get me off of the BH209. :lol:

The 3f will certainly help create more velocity with the heavier bullets - but it burns so fast it gets the lighter bullets out the barrel so fast that it sometime loses velocity from the 2f variety. If you are shooting 260 grain bullets up 3f will definitely give you a boost vs T7-2f...
 
sabotloader said:
Jim what are your shims made of? Are the washers that you have lapped down? What grit paper would you suggest?

They are made from 300 series Stainless Steel most likely the same as yours.

They are actually machined on a lathe to the correct thickness.

I have flat lapped a lot of washer in my time though and it works nicely.

I would start with 120 to 150 grit paper and finish with 220 grit to get a little better finish.
 

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