Bad day at the range with my new Triumph

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phillymac23

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Ok were to start. I took my Triumph to the range with 245 gr Powerbelts. Good groups at 25yds moved to 50yrds. Not bad groups so I moved it to 100yrds couldn't hit the paper. Bore sighted it again back to 25 not bad back to 50 not bad, 100 no paper. I don't want to blame the powerbelts but wow this sucks. Didn't have them problems with my CVA Wolf. I spit swabbed after ever shot. I got home and went to clean the gun and wow caked on crud, I've brushed and swabbed and still crud in the rifling. I tried to find some bore blast foam but my local store was out. I also am using 2 777 pelets. My local shop told me to try TC 250 gr super slides so I bought a pack, I hope I can get them down the barrell, if I ever get the crud out of the rifling. :(
 
probably the crud ring causes inconsistent pressure in the barrel. What kind of groups are 25 and 50? At 25 they should all be touching, same for 50 yards.
 
frontier gander said:
probably the crud ring causes inconsistent pressure in the barrel. What kind of groups are 25 and 50? At 25 they should all be touching, same for 50 yards.

They were about 1" at 25 and maybe 1.5" at 50. Thought I was doing pretty good until I couldn't hit the paper at 100.
 
phillymac23

Just curious, did you clean the bore before shooting - my Triumph came with some sort of heavy copper preservative in it. I finally had to treat the bore with some Butches Bore Shine - the patches came out a brillant blue.

Thought I had a pictue on PhotoBuk - but can not find it.
 
sabotloader said:
phillymac23

Just curious, did you clean the bore before shooting - my Triumph came with some sort of heavy copper preservative in it. I finally had to treat the bore with some Butches Bore Shine - the patches came out a brillant blue.

Thought I had a pictue on PhotoBuk - but can not find it.

Not totally, I ran a spit patch through it before the first load, maybe that's it. I read on other posts to use windex to clean the barrell will this get rid of the crud?
 
phillymac23

Correct windex will clean the T7 fouling from the barrel very easily.

I make pre-treated windex patches just for that.

WinPatch.jpg


Windex prabably will not do much for the bore preservative that TC uses in the bore. At some point you will need to really clean that puppy. That is probably why you keep coming out with dark patches...

Do you have any copper/lead cleaned like I mentioned?
 
both my Uncles are having the same problem with their Encores.

One is still trying to work up a load, the other just quit and bought an Optima.

I am pretty sure now he has been able to get a tight enough group at 100 yards to hunt with "I think 8 to 10 inches" but that is with loose powder and like very specific grain amounts.
 
Making T/Cs Shoot Well...

A few suggestions, which worked wonders on my T/C Omega -- taking it from 5" groups at 50 yards (with a peep sight) -- to 3-in-1-ragged-hole groups at the same yardage:

* Switch to 777 2F loose powder and gain accuracy for the slight loss of convenience -- but also save some $$ too.

* Dump the PowerBelts... End of story -- nothing to debate or discuss.

* Try the "Crushed Rib Sabots" from Harvester Muzzleloading, sized to fit the bullet you select (green or black). Many of us here have great results on paper AND deer with the 250 gr Hornady XTPs. Those crushed rib sabots have helped many a "problem T/C" start shooting well.

As I said, these tips worked on my Omega -- which came close to getting traded or sold off (would have lost my shirt on it too...) -- and you may find these will help you.

Tight groups!

Old No7
 
if you want to get rid of the crud ring and never have to swab again. look for either Blackhorn 209 or American Pioneer. TC isnt also that well know for shooting conicals, that also could be another problem for you right there. 1.5" isnt to bad, most likely could skrink it down with loose powder and adjusting the load. How high @ 50 yards? Should be 1.5-2" high @ 50
 
i would clean the barrel with alcohol and a real tight patch fallowed by hoppes and a nylon brush till the bore is spotless.if your going to use pellets swab the bore after every shot with a damp windex patch both sides then a dry both sides.i would also lose the powerbelts and go with those shockwaves.if they load to hard get harvester crushrib sabots.you've got a great ML,you'll be shooting great groups soon.when you run out of pellets i would recomend switching to loose powder and try 110 grains by volume triple 7-2f or blackhorn.my last suggestion would be to use this site by reading old posts,do a search on triumph and you'll find a wealth of info.good luck..........karl
 
Oh great . . . I'm waiting for the Triumphs to go on sale at Cabela's and now this!
 
Pay very close attention to what Sabotloader said here:

Windex prabably will not do much for the bore preservative that TC uses in the bore. At some point you will need to really clean that puppy. That is probably why you keep coming out with dark patches...

Do you have any copper/lead cleaned like I mentioned?

All new rifles should be thoroughly cleaned to the bare metal before the 1st outing. It sounds as if you may have not done this. It can still be done and needs to be done before your next outing. It very well will make all the difference in the world.


tpcollins - buy the Triumph, clean it thoroughly 1st and enjoy.
 
I just purchased CVA bore cleaning foam on the way to my kids basketball game I'm going to try it when I get home tonight. I hope that will clean off the stuff TC put on the barrel. Thanks for all of the input!
 
phillymac23

The CVA Bore Blaster probably will not get the bore preservative out of the bore. It is ok for powder residue and it will help release plastic fouling if you leave it in long enough. But I am thinking you are really going to have to go with a real bore cleaner. Or even the alcohol as someone suggested - I just never use alcohol and prefer the real deal...

These are the first cleaning patches out of my Triumph bore... first patch treated with CR-10 is on the right... The second patch came out about 15 minutes after the first allowing time for the CR-10 to work - it was a brillant blue (copper). All the rest were treated also but as you can see they came out a little cleaner each time...

DSCN0852.jpg
 
Well I used the CVA Bore Blaster foam last night and let it sit for 20 mins swabbed it, then reapplied it and let it sit over night. I swabbed it again this morning then used 5 alcohol patches and they all came out clean. The bore looks clean now should that be good enough?
 
One more question, would those White Hot pellets work better than 777 as far as fouling?
 
phillymac23 said:
Well I used the CVA Bore Blaster foam last night and let it sit for 20 mins swabbed it, then reapplied it and let it sit over night. I swabbed it again this morning then used 5 alcohol patches and they all came out clean. The bore looks clean now should that be good enough?

Read the info from Sabotloader again.
Personally, good enough does not work for me especially
when it is easy to be sure it is right. While it may look clean, there is a very good chance of some of the packing chemicals being burned in from not cleaning completely before the first firing. Been there and done that. If so, it will require the right cleaning chemicals and most likely use of a bore brush as well.

One more question, would those White Hot pellets work better than 777 as far as fouling?

From reports there is little to any difference.
 
phillymac23

One more question, would those White Hot pellets work better than 777 as far as fouling?

White hots are hotter T7 pellets without the black dye - so you should expect same 'crud' but more velocity... 2 pellets max...

T7 is white also when it is made. Hodg added the black dye to make it more appealing as a BP sub... Also remember Hodg and IMR are the same company...
 
Well my local store is pretty much out of everything. Ohio Muzzleloader season starts Jan 9th. I got some Hoppes No. 9 Solvent and cleaned it with that. Hopefully I'm ready to go sight it in before Sat.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

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